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It Ain't Easy Bein Squeezy

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Purple Valley

Maybe, Maybe Not


9.
+0
0 votes

Delusions of Grandeur 5.11b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Mark Williams in 1990
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This bolted route is located 25 feet left of Pebbly Poo past a dihedral with a wide crack.
Walk off right or rap from tree.
Descent: Walk off
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.94 stars (17 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (10 votes)

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Comments

1
scotty said on May 13th, 2004
This route has everything I look for in a sport route, hard slab and big, long moves off huge jugs. It even tops out!!
2
haas said on July 6th, 2004
was missing the 2nd and 4th bolt hangers when I did it. You can slip a nut over the bolt and sinch it down though
3
haas said on July 6th, 2004
scratch the last comment, that's the love shack that I was talking about. Oops, sorry
4
Sco Bro said on March 20th, 2006
Bad ass top out, you don't get much of that in the Gorge. Wicked and scary. The good news is that the last bolt, immediately before the top out, is new and should hold a fall. The bolts before it, well, I'd recommend not falling. P.S. the first bolt is about 18 feet in the air. Walk off the top or rap from a tree.
5
Jeff said on August 29th, 2007
Didn't get it clean, but the top section and top-out are pretty spicey!
6
Wolf said on November 9th, 2008
Very fun.
7
michaelarmand said on August 27th, 2012
This is a great climb, tough technical moves down low followed by a pumpy headwall finish. However... 1) The first bolt is likely out of stick clipping range. It is pretty easy to get here though. 2) IMO there is a dangerous run between the 2nd and 3rd bolt (and it is not easy in this section). You can protect this with a bomber 0.5 camalot out left. Unless this climb was intended to be mixed I do not understand this runout. 3) The top-out is neither difficult nor memorable, but the lack of anchors is problematic. There is not a great belay spot at the top (a tree exists but it has seen better days), and cleaning the route is a pain. I lowered and cleaned my draws using long slings at the tree and clipped into a biner on the last bolt.
8
Anonymous said on April 15th, 2014
I would have to agree wholeheartedly with Michaelarmand. The route is in grave need of attention. The first bolt is too high to safely stick clip. The beginning is dirty and choosy. The next two bolts are in the totally wrong place, and the last bolt on the headwall is going to deposit you on the slab. Lastly, the lack of proper anchor is a drag (literally). If someone gets hurt in this remote location the extraction is going to be absolute hell.
9
Ascentionist said on December 7th, 2014
It's likely this route just needs updating to a modern sport standard. It is definitely from the era of minimalistic bolting tactics.
10
Anonymous said on April 30th, 2018
Went out to Purple Valley today and this route now has an added bolt (no runout!) and chain anchors at the top that look new. No more ankle breaking fall trying to pull the lip into dirt, a pine tree and bramble. Top is still spicy, but glad to have the option of clipping from the top jug, lowering off, or topping out.
11
Anonymous said on July 31st, 2020
lol what a toolbag... no one has the energy to be personally offended by this guy, but everyone does think he's an arrogant moron haha