Scalpel

This route is located in the Miller Fork at The Morgue

Pathology (Project)


7.
+2
2 votes

Coroner 5.12c (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Shadow Ayala in 2015
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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It's not often an instant classic is born but this route shows that it is definitely possible. This is the kind of stuff people come from Spain to Kentucky for. Classic, pumpy climbing with enough variety to keep it interesting leads up to a grand finale crux run to the chains and an anchor clip guaranteed to bring the chicken wings out of any climber. If this is open, you are in luck.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
technical (1) beautiful (1) classic (1) long (1)
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5 stars (17 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (12 votes)

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Submitted by: shadow.ayala
Date: Sep 17th, 2015

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jan 25th, 2015

Comments

1
craig.smith1 said on April 3rd, 2015
This will be one of the best routes of it grade when open. They don't get much better than this.
2
shadow.ayala said on September 16th, 2015
sent! :) this route is now open!! it is called Coroner.
3
dustonian said on September 16th, 2015
rad!!
4
Anonymous said on September 16th, 2015
Rachel or you send Shaddow? Ian
5
rockman said on November 2nd, 2015
Wicked wicked good
6
JR said on May 10th, 2016
Great route. Very straight forward climbing. Anchor placement is confusing. If anchor gaffe was fixed it might be the Orange Juice of Miller Fork.
7
Anonymous said on May 10th, 2016
There is really nothing confusing about it. Do the boulder problem, clip the anchor. End of story.
8
Anonymous said on May 10th, 2016
I am sorry you fell and couldn't tick this climb. You must be so embarrassed. Oh wait, you are right. I will move the anchor. Then maybe you will send.
9
Anonymous said on May 10th, 2016
Can't believe this arrogant douchebag still thinks anything gives a fuck what he thinks haha
10
kafish2 said on May 10th, 2016
"you could try to clip the chains low off some crimps but you'd be better off pulling a few more moves to get to the good clip hold a little higher." this description could work for the finish of coroner or orange juice. You know, since that's what we are comparing here.
11
Anonymous said on May 10th, 2016
I gotta agree with him that anchor placement was botched on this one. Otherwise great route, especially if the anchor is placed properly.
12
JR said on May 10th, 2016
You are right kfisher. You can clip OJ a move early. I don't remember if there is a way to put the anchors in a better place on OJ. Funny I didn't even think of that. I was just using OJ as a standard. for a good mid 12. No big deal really. I will probably just clip off the triangley shaped hold and do the last 3 moves. I was just a little disappointed. I thought it was obvious that the route could be improved safely. As is, the route is safe and good. Great find!
13
Willy said on May 10th, 2016
Higher anchors would definitely up the quality. There's a much better clipping hold up there and its a cool big move to get to it. Not bad as is but this route is too good to not have the anchors in the best possible location in my opinion
14
shadow.ayala said on May 11th, 2016
I remember the rock quality going down dramatically up higher. That is why the anchor is where it us. If you think it would be better to move move the anchor. By all means, do it.q
15
JohnnyKy said on March 18th, 2017
Since everybody is talking about the anchor placement on such a beautiful climb and not talking about the potentential stopper move after cumming out of the hueco or the luxury of chillin in the hueco after a finess of the first 20 feet, in my opinion the beauty of this climb is the anchor placement, it makes you think harder when trying to clip for the onsight.... and if that doesn't work then you learn of the jug just above the anchor to clip a waist level. Nothing wrong with the anchor placement, the only thing wrong is the person trying to clip the anchors and than complaining for what ever reason about the anchors!