COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Monk in the Middle

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Monastery


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Arete Syndrome 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jeff Neal, Sam Gilbert in 2013
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the gorgeous arete on the right side of the wall. Begin with a thin start to reach a blobby hueco at the third bolt. Climb the low angle face with precarious movement and shift left near the top for the chains.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

3.17 stars (23 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (29 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 29th, 2013


JR said on October 13th, 2014
Mostly fun in the sun!!! Nice work Jeff.
J-Ru said on October 20th, 2014
Cool movement throughout. Clipping the 7th bolt is really tough and moving from the 7th bolt to the jugs above seemed really difficult as well. That section felt much harder than 10d.
Nate W said on November 16th, 2015
The blobby hueco is full of wasps as of 11/15/15. Do NOT stick your hand in the crack on the right side of it. If you want to climb this, I would recommend climbing carefully to the left. Climber beware!
Chiyram said on September 6th, 2016
This route looked awesome and ended up climbing awesome! Pretty confusing crux section, that makes this thing fun. Felt pretty hard until I figured out the beta.
Jackiefreesh said on November 10th, 2016
Anybody know what's going on with the hardware about eight feet to the right of the arete? Looks like it could be a good one.
MikeWilkinson said on September 17th, 2017
Hard off the ground on this one. Crux section up high felt pretty hard for a 10. In fact, the start and the upper crux felt harder than any moves on the nearby 11s but maybe I was missing something.
AidClimber said on November 4th, 2020
Have your buddy hang the draws then buy him a beer after. Fun route