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Ride the Coal Train

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Purple Valley

5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin'

0 votes

Into the Purple Valley 5.8 (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Martin Hackworth, Bill Wade in 1987
Length: 95ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk 150 left of Spinning Marty around a corner and through some rhodos. Head back towards the wall and look for an obvious splitter with a small roof about twenty feet up. Scramble up the dirty start to the roof and take the handcrack to a ledge.
Excellent route. Nice view from the top.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

4.34 stars (64 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (45 votes)

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Submitted by: Roger
Date: Jun 2nd, 2012

Submitted by: cushman
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


hamsco said on February 9th, 2003
What a great route- one of the best 5-8s in the Red
tonybubb said on June 18th, 2003
I have to agree that this is a classic at it's grade!
maxclimb11 said on November 10th, 2005
tis a wonderful route with everything on it
Wolf said on August 1st, 2006
Great climb. Top it out, it's got the best view in the Red that I've seen yet!
anticlmber said on October 7th, 2007
decent route. i don't think it's worth all the hype but a good climb.
ruetut said on October 16th, 2007
20 feet of classic climbing squeezed between a lot of not so classic climbing.
dbarless said on November 5th, 2007
Not the overall experience of Whiteout, but still one badass line for a 5.8
pigsteak said on September 22nd, 2008
Dman said on January 28th, 2009
alright but deffintly not classic or the best veiw for that matter
cliftongifford said on March 25th, 2009
I thought it was a lot harder than 5.8...
vooshniva said on April 27th, 2009
good fun route really cool topout
pawilkes said on June 15th, 2009
the crack was a little bit greasy but the excitement came when I was fiddling in gear towards the end of the hand crack. weird screechy noises made me look around and notice the 8 bats in the crack above me. Luckily i could go around them easily. just be aware
Roger said on June 2nd, 2012
The right anchor has no rap ring and the left one is a spinner. If you climb it next, throw a quick link on the right one as a favor to everybody else. I would have, but didn't have one.
Cromper said on July 22nd, 2012
New quick links on the anchors today.
Bloody Knees said on October 24th, 2012
Don't forget to look around when you get to the top... beautiful!
Smiles said on October 18th, 2016
Nice line, takes gear well, you'll feel safe all the way. One anchor was spinning when we did it in Oct 2016. I left a cordelette wrapped round a tree above as a back up to the anchor (and one of my caribiners too). Take a wrench up with you and the anchor may tighten up.
DrRockso said on October 18th, 2016
Likely too rusty to tighten, I would not attempt at this point, needs to be replaced at some point.
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2016
booty call!!