Into the Purple Valley

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Purple Valley

Big Crack


18.
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5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' 5.10b (Mixed) ***

First Ascent: Martin Hackworth, Jimmy Guignard in 1989
Length: 40ft
Bolts/Gear: 0/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route is located on the arete 15 feet left of Into the Purple Valley. Climb to the fixed anchors using bolts and natural protection in slots.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.12 stars (26 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (20 votes)

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Comments

1
Sco Bro said on March 20th, 2006
Short and fun. Only needs one piece of gear or go bold and run it out. We used a nut, a small TCU would have worked better, but we were travelling light.
2
michaelarmand said on November 5th, 2007
Sweet and pumpy climb! I took a fall pulling the roof, but I shall return....
3
pawilkes said on May 5th, 2008
a #1 c4 protects the roof perfectly
4
pigsteak said on September 22nd, 2008
nut on last bolt was a half of spin from falling off. make sure to at least finger tighten it on your way by.
5
Myke Dronez said on November 10th, 2008
The bolt hanger is like that so you can take it off and use it on the Love Shack- just return it when you're done.
6
jrathfon said on June 7th, 2010
all the bolts are fine, i 2nd that all you need is one #1 camalot, if you're headed up here to sport climb, just bring one cam. fun, stiff, and sandy as hell, i think the last ascent was in 2008...
7
CLIMBTRAD said on June 7th, 2010
fun route got on it this May did not find sand
8
Danny said on April 4th, 2012
Where people place this cam is a waste of time and energy. This route should not be classified as mixed.
9
goodtimes said on July 18th, 2012
stellar climb. took a fall just below the third bolt and was fine but it would have been nice to have the #1 c4.