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COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Into the Purple Valley

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Purple Valley

 Big Crack

18.
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0 votes

5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' 5.10b (Mixed) ***

First Ascent: Martin Hackworth, Jimmy Guignard in 1989
Length: 40ft
Bolts/Gear: 0/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route is located on the arete 15 feet left of Into the Purple Valley. Climb to the fixed anchors using bolts and natural protection in slots.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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3.11 stars (27 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (21 votes)

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9 comments {add your own comments}
1
Sco Bro said on March 20th, 2006
Short and fun. Only needs one piece of gear or go bold and run it out. We used a nut, a small TCU would have worked better, but we were travelling light.
2
michaelarmand said on November 5th, 2007
Sweet and pumpy climb! I took a fall pulling the roof, but I shall return....
3
pawilkes said on May 5th, 2008
a #1 c4 protects the roof perfectly
4
pigsteak said on September 22nd, 2008
nut on last bolt was a half of spin from falling off. make sure to at least finger tighten it on your way by.
5
Myke Dronez said on November 10th, 2008
The bolt hanger is like that so you can take it off and use it on the Love Shack- just return it when you're done.
6
jrathfon said on June 7th, 2010
all the bolts are fine, i 2nd that all you need is one #1 camalot, if you're headed up here to sport climb, just bring one cam. fun, stiff, and sandy as hell, i think the last ascent was in 2008...
7
CLIMBTRAD said on June 7th, 2010
fun route got on it this May did not find sand
8
Danny said on April 4th, 2012
Where people place this cam is a waste of time and energy. This route should not be classified as mixed.
9
goodtimes said on July 18th, 2012
stellar climb. took a fall just below the third bolt and was fine but it would have been nice to have the #1 c4.