Social Butterfly

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Purple Valley

No Retreat


23a.
+0
0 votes

Me-yommy V3 (Bouldering) ****

First Ascent: Kris Hampton in 1999
Length: 25ft
Bolts/Gear: 0/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just left of Social Butterfly is a cave with a crack coming out of it. Start back in the cave from a good handjam and continue out the crack making liberal use of the left ledge for feet. Kick through at the end and whip around to some crimps on the face. Crank up to a good handjam and stand up on the ledge.
For a greater challenge (and if you are bored), call out the ledge on the left and fingerlock out the crack making use of the footholds on the right. FA: Ray Ellington 2002
Moves: Wide Crack or Offwidth
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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4 stars (1 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.0 ( votes)

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Comments

1
Ascentionist said on July 22nd, 2005
So you both got the FA? In two different years? Nice way to work the space-time continuum.
2
ynp1 said on November 5th, 2007
man i lookcd at doing this route this past weekend and it looks like shit! i dont know how it got 4 stars??? i would give it none. it looks horrible. i think you might get AIDS from the rock if you try to climb it.... post a pic... maybe i found the wrong route....
3
pigsteak said on November 6th, 2007
so did you get on it, or just bitch from the ground?
4
SCIN said on November 6th, 2007
It's a long cave. I don't remember the rock quality being too bad. It may have been kind of spiny. It's pretty tough straight in fingerlocking through a roof if you call out the ledge. Then you have to kick through and do some offwidth near the end. This isn't a route though. It's a boulder problem low to the ground.
5
ynp1 said on November 7th, 2007
man i dont know i think i found it, but it sound nothing like you said. ill try to post a pic and you can tell me if it is it. according to the guide book i was in the right spot, found a cave and found the finger splitter, ledge on the left for feet. but there was no ledge and the rock was seeping water and looked like it has never been touched before. oh yeah fuck off pigsteak
6
SCIN said on November 7th, 2007
It's not the best looking thing for sure but it was fun to climb because it was a bit tough. My standards are very low though man.
7
512OW said on November 7th, 2007
The moves at the lip are stellar. You should actually try and climb somethin ynp1... you might learn somethin...
8
ynp1 said on November 8th, 2007
man i dont know if i found the right thing, but i think i did, but there was no ledge to call(?) out on. but i will try it sometime Kris Hampton... and dont worry ill tell you what i learned...
9
SCIN said on November 8th, 2007
I uploaded a photo of it.
10
ynp1 said on November 8th, 2007
yeah that is what i found... i guess i just dont know good rock when i see it...
11
512OW said on November 8th, 2007
Haha. Nice pic. It wasn't a ledge, really... just a big foot rail. Shouldn't you be teachin math somewhere? :)