Urban Voodoo

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Solarium

Super Best Friends


5a.
+0
0 votes

Delicatessen 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dru Mack, Dustin Stephens in 2014
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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The huge roof right of Urban Voodoo. A smorgasboard of movement delivers you to a few well-spaced jugs in the steepness, where you best sharpen up the heel spurs for success.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
offwidth (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.55 stars (33 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (41 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jan 10th, 2016

Submitted by: Willy
Date: Mar 27th, 2014

Submitted by: Willy
Date: Mar 27th, 2014

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Mar 6th, 2014

Comments

1
Spikeddem said on March 4th, 2014
Named in honor of the rock?
2
dustonian said on March 4th, 2014
that... and Drude's fancy new job
3
Anonymous said on March 24th, 2014
Fun route - as of late March '14 still a bit sharp and broke a few foot holds in the roof, with a little more traffic should be great.
4
whoneedsfeet said on March 24th, 2014
The route isn't even three months old and you're complaining about breaking a couple of footholds?
5
Anonymous said on March 24th, 2014
I don't think they were really complaining, just commenting on it.
6
whoneedsfeet said on March 24th, 2014
nope they were complaining, i know these things trust me.
7
Chiyram said on March 26th, 2014
What are you the site moderator whoneedsfeet? Your bitching is worse than any complaining.
8
jkpugel said on March 26th, 2014
Before this turns into something ridiculous let me just say that this is a great addition to an awesome wall. I'd say the roof has some of the coolest movement on the wall and the grade is on par for the other climbs at the Solarium (although maybe on the softer side of 12b). Get on it and thanks to Dustin and Dru for opening this one up.
9
dustonian said on March 28th, 2014
sorry Willy, as much as I admire the girth of their meaty portions, Koop's is NOT a delicatessen...
10
Willy said on March 28th, 2014
That's ok. This site needed a little more porn anyway
11
whoneedsfeet said on May 14th, 2014
step lightly, knocked about a 20lb chunk off before the roof. Super fun route. I'll be back to clean it up more.
12
dustonian said on May 14th, 2014
Fatty! Best not to lie beneath pretty much much anything at this crag, saw a guy on the ground get clobbered by a block from Summer Sunshine a year or two ago...
13
512OW said on May 14th, 2014
I watched the widow maker tree above Air Ride Equipped fall yesterday while someone was on Air Ride. He might have been pulling on it... not sure.
14
Aksama said on August 22nd, 2014
Feels like more fun than Super Best Friends to me, by a long shot. Nothing crazy hard, but a little sequential here and there in the roof.
15
stephmjxteam said on September 8th, 2014
A futur 5 star ! Nice jobs to the one who opened it
16
brayackmedia said on October 6th, 2014
12b all day long. Good route and for the most part clean. I would say toward the end of the "needs traffic to clean up and be awesome phase"...more like..."is awesome" phase. Nice on Dustin.
17
tyler.yarbrough said on October 27th, 2014
Better than SBF - and harder. Considerably harder. So much fun through the roof. If this thing is 12a there's no way Super is a B.
18
Anonymous said on October 27th, 2014
No way SBF is 12b... many 11d's are harder
19
Anonymous said on October 30th, 2014
FYI - Right permadraw at the anchor is SCARY, super worn almost 1/2 way through the carabiner. Is a perma, but needs replacing ASAP
20
Raiden said on October 31st, 2014
Super best friends has never been a 12b, more like soft 12a.
21
coolbreeze said on January 11th, 2016
Roof moves are the coolest in the red! In my opinion, more fun that Super Best Friends.
22
jmini said on December 22nd, 2016
I think the roof is way harder then SBF. Still a fun route!