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American Juggalo

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Secret Garden

0 votes 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Mike Cook, Nate Laughlin in 2013
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begins left of a large hueco. A more sustained angle than the bulge laden lines to the right.
Moves: Balancy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
adventerous (1)
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Quality Consensus

2.57 stars (21 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (19 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Feb 3rd, 2015


Anonymous said on March 17th, 2014
this is how the routes on the Undertow Wall should have been named...
Cromper said on March 24th, 2014
I may not call myself a patriot but this route did make me question 911.
Mike Cook said on April 21st, 2014
Hello, I put these slab routes up with Nate Laughlin, Brittainy Rash Laughlin, and Danielle Black. I got the first send of all routes on 11/9/13, but I would very much like for my partners to get some credit in the route descriptions. Posting this on 4/21/14. The wall was very, very dirty and a lot of cleaning was required. Everyone worked hard and deserves credit for their efforts. All four routes are high quality, at least 3 maybe 4 stars I'd say. All have fun movement and are not typical ladder like climbs; all require some thought and non-standard technique. All bolts are stainless steel glue-ins and are bomber, chains and replaceable lowering links on all anchors. I think the grades I've given them are close, but consensus will rule. From left to right they are, 10c-, 10a-, 5.9+,, 10b. I have been working a ton- 7 days a week, 12 hours a day, for months and have not been climbing since last fall. As soon as I can get down there again I will take and submit photos and get an accurate bolt count. I think that the bolt count is, from left to right, 6,5,5 & 4. Stick clips were intended and are recommended for all routes, especially the right most one which is pretty high. Most all the potential falls are safe and Nate tested a lot of the bolts by falling on them from what should be the maximum height possible. AE911 does have some run out to it and falling in the wrong place on it could be very bad, but all bolts were placed carefully so they would be right where they should be for climbers of all sizes. They are a little sporty, but pretty damn safe. I'll write a more detailed description for each one, if desired, at some point. Have fun and climb safely! Cheers!
dustonian said on April 21st, 2014
Oh god... Fun routes Mike, but come on, they're 45-50' slabs on a grey lichen-covered wall. 3 stars IF you happen to like slabs. The grades all seemed fair to me, & bolts were fine except B and C were kind of squeezed in.
Anonymous said on April 21st, 2014
OMG Mike Cook you are insane... I'm not even touching on the 9/11 topics but just you're posts make you look like a nut no matter what you are discussing. Get a grip on reality man!
Anonymous said on April 22nd, 2014
Thanks Dustin! Yeah, 3 stars, if you like slabs :-) Not your typical slabs though, the moves are fun, the routes bulge out/get steep and require some thought and upper body strength. We did squeeze, I admit it. They are all independent lines though, and given the popularity of moderate slaby routes, seemed like a very good idea to squeeze a bit. I'm sure many folks will have lots of fine times there! Many thanks to Scott Curran and the fellow who gave up on this wall! (Scott said that we could likely get 4 routes on it, and we did. I'm brain farting on the guy's name who started working on it but was deterred by the amount of lichen and moss cleaning required. I didn't drill all the holes you'll see in this wal; he did some of them. It was only available for us because of the amount of work required to clean it up. "clean" does not refer to rock quality- the rock is very sound. It only refers to moss and lichen. Those are pretty much gone and lots of traffic will help clean them further and keep them at bay.) Thanks for providing a length too, Dustin!
Mike Cook said on May 5th, 2014
sweet baby jesus....
Chiyram said on September 29th, 2014
This has some tough clips at the top and it's pretty run out. The girlfriend enjoyed it, me not so much.
veela-valoom said on September 25th, 2017
I don't think this route is any easier than the one to the left. The crux is pretty confounding. Fun movement. I want to try it when it's not hot and humid (my mistake). Just wanted to note there are more than 5 bolts now. Probably 6 but by the time I reached the top I didn't care to count.
wsimek said on April 3rd, 2019
If I remember correctly, I think the route labeled as #28 in the picture is actually as it shows it starting through a flake and going through the huecos.
damoro said on September 3rd, 2019
On the picture #27 states to be American Juggalo but I don't believe that is correct. I think American Juggalo is one route left from that one. Thoughts?