Anklebreaker

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Purple Valley

Electric Cowboy


25.
+0
0 votes

Burden of Dreams 5.11c (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Martin Hackworth, Larry Day in 1987
Length: 80ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Keep walking to the left from Anklebreaker for about 100 feet. Keep your eye out for a huge roof crack to the right of a bolted arete. Scramble up to the ledge beneath to get to the first pitch of this beast. Climb the left or right side of the first pitch and belay from the ledge. Continue up the fist crack and take it through the roof and over the lip to the top. Bring some large gear for the middle and the end.
"This offwidth and fist crack extravaganza has been a nightmare for most climbers who attempted it" -John Bronaugh, Red River Gorge Climbs, Second Edition
Moves: Fists
Descent: Rap anchors-60m rope required
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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5 stars (6 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (3 votes)

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Comments

1
512OW said on November 15th, 2004
No way this is 11c. 11a is more like it.
2
Nobody said on November 29th, 2004
It's harder than your treasured Inhibitor, ooo that stings a little doesn't it.
3
512OW said on November 30th, 2004
No way dude....its definitely not harder. I onsighted it the weekend after I onsighted the Inhibitor. Felt exactly the same. Maybe you guys should learn the right way to climb it....
4
Wolf said on November 9th, 2008
None of the moves felt harder than the hard moves on Inhibitor, but it definitely seemed more sustained and physical. Awesome line.
5
nemanji said on March 22nd, 2013
Got thrashed trying it. Super fun and physical. Cant wait to come back and do this thing properly.
6
brhe224 said on April 28th, 2014
condensates pretty easily like most of these types of climbs in the red - make sure you go out on a low humidity day or else you'll grease out of the crack!