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JewJew Fruit

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Fruit Wall

Banana Split


20.
+0
0 votes

Drosophila 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens in 2014
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just left of Jew Jew Fruit. Pop up onto the initial slab while gunning for a hand ledge to start. A low roof makes way for long moves between slots and a welcome traverse right to dodge the impossible. Keep your short girlfriend off of this one if you want some nookie.
Moves: Crimps
Descent: Bolt anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.68 stars (19 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (14 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Feb 7th, 2015

Comments

1
dustonian said on August 6th, 2014
Sort of like an easy Take that KB
2
krampus said on October 20th, 2014
Great little red river very rout
3
shadow.ayala said on April 19th, 2015
Years ago I climbed this on a fixed line and was climbing direct. It felt about .13a and I never went back to bolt it. This version is great. I love wandering routes.
4
Willy said on April 30th, 2015
Spot on description. At 6'0 this felt gentle for the grade
5
sarah said on August 14th, 2015
definitely still doable at the grade if you are short. Its just a lot more awkward.
6
Patty McGee said on September 14th, 2015
'the impossible' move certainly made this feel 12.something, taking the lower traverse before it made it feel 11.something. With that said, very fun route worth climbing
7
MikeWilkinson said on November 5th, 2017
Got shut down a few bolts up, unable to figure out how to reach the next horizontal break. Tricky for my 5'10" self. Pulled on a draw to get past and finished the route with no issues after that but the beta for that one section escapes me...
8
Chiyram said on January 28th, 2018
Some cool moves on this one, but the traversing detracts from the quality. Would be 4 stars if it could go straight up.
9
Jackiefreesh said on January 28th, 2018
I hear the Dawn Wall has a traverse or two, so lets keep the rating down to 3 stars on that one.
10
Anonymous said on January 28th, 2018
Did you just suggest that the same factors affect what tends to make a sport climb good vs what tends to make a big wall climb good?
11
Jackiefreesh said on January 29th, 2018
Yup, with a little tongue in cheek. I respect Chiyram because I have not been able to get this climb clean yet, but I like sport climbs that wander, like Shadow mentioned. I know however that most "Sport" climbers seem to like a straight up bolt line. That shouldn't hold back a rating for the occasional wandering route. Heath Ledger further down the way is a real good one that I think could be four stars.
12
Chiyram said on January 29th, 2018
I don't see anywhere in my comment where I said all traversing on sport routes everywhere sucks... I have traversed plenty on routes and it's been fine, but when the movement isn't great and it's sketchy, it doesn't get 4 or 5 stars.
13
Chiyram said on January 29th, 2018
Also, I like some funky routes, but if you think Heath Ledger is a 4 star route, then you use a different star rating than most. Which is fine, the climber having the most fun, as the ol' adage goes.
14
Anonymous said on January 30th, 2018
4 stars for Heath Ledger? Lol. I don't even think Dustin would agree with that. I like choss just fine, but rock quality has to count for something.
15
Jackiefreesh said on January 31st, 2018
I admit to giving Heath Ledger 4 stars. I didn't think there was much choss to bring it down and no holds broke while my fat ass went up. Just the fact that Dustin stashed a stick clip on that ledge was worth extra points in my book, but I'm not a bestseller. I really did laugh out loud when I rolled over to the slab section. Drosophila has enough variety and quality sections to keep me coming back to try three times so far.
16
Anonymous said on September 15th, 2019
Does anyone know exactly where the intended start of this route is? starting directly under the first bowl makes it seem like the cracks is just getting off of the ground. instinctively I would have started a couple feet
17
greek4pearl said on September 15th, 2019
Does anyone know exactly where the intended start of this route is? Starting directly under the first bolt makes it seem like the crix is just getting off of the ground. Imstinctively I would have started a couple feet left but now that is almost underneath the new route on the left.
18
dustonian said on May 27th, 2020
I started it a bit to the left and moved up and right, but do whatever you think is the most fun
19
AidClimber said on May 27th, 2020
Me and my friends really liked this one, thanks for putting it up. Its a very friendly 12 I'd recommend for someone trying to get their first. Tons of giant rests on it