Fruits of my Loins

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Fruit Wall

Banana Hammock

0 votes

Hourglass Crack 5.10d (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Justin Loyka, Dylan Schweig in 2014
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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The obvious overhanging crack splitting the main wall at its highest point. You will actually feel pretty cool on this because you are guaranteed to climb higher than whoever is left and right of you. Jingle those cams and grunt really loudly while talking about how lame sport climbing is. Then pull your stuff up, yell down "zero bolts bitches!", and rappel down from a tree far away from the climbers you just pissed off. Or lower from the chains and run.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Walk off
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

4.6 stars (10 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (7 votes)

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Submitted by: rjackson
Date: May 26th, 2015

Submitted by: caribe
Date: May 4th, 2015

Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Apr 28th, 2015

Submitted by: JustinLoyka
Date: Jan 3rd, 2015

Submitted by: JustinLoyka
Date: Jan 3rd, 2015

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Sep 3rd, 2014

Submitted by: Cromper
Date: Apr 17th, 2014


dustonian said on April 17th, 2014
don't even need to climb this one to give it 5 stars... spectacular line!
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2014
Anonymous said on February 18th, 2015
haha nice description. bring a brush too
Raiden said on April 27th, 2015
Looks like a 6 star line, climbs like a 3 star line (topped with a mud-filled chimney). Not recommended to lower from the webbing at the top since it causes brutal rope drag - belay from top.
Patty McGee said on April 27th, 2015
First 40 feet were excelent Raiden and you know this. That chimney at the top is extra exciting in wet, muddy conditions.. Did he mention to belay from the top??
kman154 said on April 27th, 2015
Raiden, did you take my cleaning carabiner? We were able to clean as long as you extend the anchor from the top over the lip. Then we just walked up an took the anchor down. Had not issues cleaning in this fashion.
Raiden said on April 27th, 2015
Do you mean the fixed nut with the biner about 1/3 of the way up? It popped out after I put my rope through it and started to lower (maybe I need to lose some weight). Didn't have quite enough webbing to make it over the lip so maybe it would be fine like that. Where did you walk up at?
dustonian said on April 27th, 2015
Walk ups left and right of the main section of Fruit Wall, left is slightly easier. The FAs have OK'd an anchor at the top of thr chimney wants to add some stainless gear up there.
Raiden said on April 28th, 2015
Thanks Dustin. I talked to Dyl he said just put the anchors after that jug horn before the chimney since nobody likes chimneys anyway ;)
kman154 said on April 28th, 2015
yep, that was the stopper and nut we used to clean. Would love to get it back.
caribe said on May 3rd, 2015
Route has anchors. If you want to get to them, you'll need to climb the chimney; it protects well.
dustonian said on May 3rd, 2015
Nice sends boys
JustinLoyka said on June 1st, 2015
Cool that people are getting on this monster. I'm psyched to hear there's anchors on it, and that they go above the chimney, I thought it really capped the whole experience off haha. Good stuff ya'll.
slander said on October 31st, 2016
Fun adventure climbing to the top with lots of face holds. Still dirty in parts, so bring a brush.
Souperman said on March 6th, 2019
Does this route require wide gear, or is up to a bd 4 solid?
Anonymous said on March 7th, 2019
Nothing bigger than a 4 required