Last Rites

This route is located in the Miller Fork at The Infirmary

Foaming at the Mouth


14.
+1
1 votes

Diminished Gluteal Syndrome 5.12d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Kris Hampton, Mike Wheatley in 2014
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 14 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin as with Last Rights but head directly into the steep cave gunning for the sit-down rests. Pace yourself for the exposed boulder problem before the chains.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.37 stars (19 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (25 votes)

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Comments

1
512OW said on May 22nd, 2014
The movement is 4 stars, though I'm giving it only 2 stars for now. I do think it could clean up into a 3 star line, and I'm pretty damned stingy with my stars. Also, it could be easier than 13a... similar to Easy Rider, I think. Great job with the bolt placements Mike, and thanks for letting me get on it! It should be illegal to hang a long draw on the final bolt, because that boulder problem is EXCELLENT with the exposure.
2
ray said on October 18th, 2015
Scared the piss out of me diving into the unknown without the last bolt clipped! I think crawled in and out of the ledge for 15 minutes before taking a chosen path. A periscope would have been awesome.
3
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2017
I didn't really get a boulder problem at the end. I climbed on big ticked jug sidepulls slightly right of the last bolt, which was very easy. Maybe more left of last bolt has tougher sequence?
4
Cocoapuffs1000 said on November 15th, 2017
Agree, the last "boulder problem" was almost a non event. Work up very obvious juggy sidepulls (you could cop a no hands rest here if you really wanted), grab a couple large crimps then cruise on jigs.
5
Jeff said on November 15th, 2017
Thanks for the perma draws Onefall. Sounds like this is getting some traffic.
6
pumpout2004 said on April 30th, 2018
Excellent rock climb, but not 12d and barely 12c.
7
shadow.ayala said on April 4th, 2019
Super fun. I agree with pumpout2004. Barely .12c.