Psych Ward

This route is located in the Miller Fork at The Infirmary

Diminished Gluteal Syndrome


13.
+1
1 votes

Last Rites 5.12b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley, Mike Wheatley in 2015
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 14 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Begin on Diminished but cut right to take on what may be one of the steepest and most consistent buckethauls in the Preserve. Spicy runouts near the top provide some additional flavor.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

4.58 stars (43 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (38 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: Willy
Date: Nov 17th, 2016

Submitted by: Andrew
Date: May 15th, 2014

Comments

1
Anonymous said on June 5th, 2014
awesome route. more like 100 to 110 feet. thanks again Mike!
2
Michael_W said on June 6th, 2014
we will get a more accurate height for it and its brother to the left in the future. It will be easier than " Diminished Gluteal Syndrome" ......mid 12s probably. I will open it as soon as I can.
3
Andrew said on June 6th, 2014
Mike climbed to the crux yesterday on his second day climbing on the route. Worked out good beta for the crux. All on a maximum humidity day. He will definitely send this one. Good luck dad! Thanks for the good beta Jimmy.
4
whoneedsfeet said on June 6th, 2014
And I quote "Sometimes ya gotta climb like a thug."
5
Anonymous said on February 13th, 2015
Incredible line. Good luck with the project.
6
Anonymous said on February 13th, 2015
"rites"
7
shadow.ayala said on May 17th, 2015
So psyched for you Mike!! 5*****stars for sure. :)
8
Anonymous said on September 28th, 2015
Is this rig open for business?
9
Meadows said on November 23rd, 2015
Excellent, excellent route. Really loving this cliff!
10
climb2core said on November 29th, 2015
Excellent adventurous climb that looks more intimidating than it is. Cleaning up nicely, especially after Cromlech broke the same hold three goes in a row.
11
craig.smith1 said on December 10th, 2015
Super jugs. If you're not on a jug, do one more move. Really fun.
12
stephmjxteam said on April 6th, 2016
Wow !!! 5 stars all the way :)
13
Spagel said on November 28th, 2017
Incredible line! Mike did a great job with this one. So close to the send and I ticked some different beta at the "crux." Great climb.
14
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2018
WARNING: 10/14/18. 7th Permadraw (including the hangar and bolt) missing! The 2nd permadraw in the roof pulled out Sunday while we were on the route. A fall above the missing draw would be highly consequential. Climb at your own risk.
15
sigrah said on October 18th, 2018
Do we know if the perma-draws are still near the route? My guess is no one ever tighten down the bolts and they came out.
16
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2018
What did you do with the perma and bolt that pulled out? Did you steal it?
17
J-Ru said on October 18th, 2018
Per the BadBolts.com bolt report: "We left the permadraw at base of climb."
18
MikeWilkinson said on October 19th, 2018
Can confirm. Walked past LR a couple days ago, there was a warning at the base of the route and the perma, with bolt, were stashed in a crack near the start of the route.
19
sigrah said on October 20th, 2018
Replaced the bolt and put the permanent draw back on. Decided to move the bolt to the right of the original hole.