COVID-19 Climbing Closures: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - are closed. Please stay home and stay safe. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Scantily Trad

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at The Zoo

Snake Charmer

0 votes

Romance Explosion 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens in 2014
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start with a jump off the boulder 50' right of Reasonable Doubt. New River-style crimpin leads to wild moves up the headwall above.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Bolt anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private

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Quality Consensus

3.92 stars (12 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (11 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


shadow.ayala said on July 1st, 2014
Amazing route. Very very fun. I barely stepped on the ledge at the top and a 500lb. death block came off with ease. It some how missed the rope and landed 6ft. from my belayer. The name is fitting.
nik said on July 1st, 2014
was across the way when the death block came off...explosion for sure. aside from that, and from some of the still-suspicious looking blocks in the crack (though maybe they're solid???), this route is incredible. so cool switching from one face to the other, 3-4 memorable sequences, and a little spice. instantly one of my favorites in the grade range.
dustonian said on July 1st, 2014
Thought I had tagged the route to trundle that block at later date, but guess it got late that day. Sorry & thanks for the "cleaning" Shadow!
pigsteak said on May 31st, 2015
great find Dustin.....first go felt impossible with the slab crux for some reason...wife had to show me the beta and felt right on target second go...really really nice.
Rollo said on July 4th, 2016
Please send your wife to show me how to do this. First time I've been shut down at this grade in a while.
Jeff said on November 6th, 2016
Same thoughts about the start. Tried it months ago and walked away frustrated. Walked it yesterday. Super cool movement. Big scary looking blocks are easy to avoid.
jacqnasty said on April 23rd, 2018
For shorty I felt stumped near the bottom but the top felt great to me. Love the movement at the top actually. But I was hanging out at the second-to-last bolt just balancing, barely touching a hold that I used to get up moments before and it fell off. Definitely felt like there were some portions in the middle that were run out and I got in my head a little bit but other than that fun movement
KhaoticKlimber said on August 2nd, 2019
Killer line! Very unique movement I haven't quite seen in the Red before. Never worked so hard for an 11a. Perhaps 11b is more accurate? Demands your attention the whole way; physically for the thin, reachy boulder problems through the first half and mentally for the heady, run-out transition to the adjacent face. Thankfully, good holds make it not nearly as intimidating as it looks. Save some juice for the final cruxy move to the chains.