Pixadoodle

This route is located in the Miller Fork at The Nursery

Kate's Way


12.
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Fuzzy Muffin 5.7 (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Bob Bartlett, Patrick Miller in 2014
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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The tallest and possibly the best line on the wall. Climb up to and past the left side of the hueco. The ability to high step takes the sting out of this one.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Bolt anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.73 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8- (17 votes)

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Comments

1
MartyV said on September 22nd, 2014
I think some edges broke off making this more difficult than 5.7. now requires a crimpy pull up / high step.
2
pigsteak said on April 24th, 2015
Favorite on the wall
3
jenbongo said on July 4th, 2016
I think this and the previous route descriptions are mixed up. I thought this was the harder route and not as good. Broken holds on this route may have increased the grade.
4
Spagel said on March 26th, 2017
There are crimpy high step moves that makes this MUCH harder than 7. I thought that move warranted a 9. Maybe holds broke?
5
Anonymous said on March 26th, 2017
Nah it's just your technique and comparison to all the other bolted 5.4's that are graded 5.7 in the Red
6
Anonymous said on November 27th, 2017
This is a 5.6 climb with a single 5.7 move. That said, it's very much a technical move and will cause some confusion for a new 5.7 leader, especially one with limited slab experience.
7
Anonymous said on November 27th, 2017
hahahaha..is there any other description to be had of someone who climbs 5.6/7 but "inexperienced"...well, perhaps gumby fits as well.
8
Mdjagg said on December 23rd, 2017
As of 12/22/17, there is a spinning hanger and a loose 3 or 4th bolt. I should have made a note on the exact one but forgot to. It's a fun route, but until this is fixed, be prepared to make an awkward stick clip up to the next bolt. The move past this bolt is the crux, so be careful not to fall on it. I'll post this to the fix gear initiative board.
9
Anonymous said on December 23rd, 2017
Or, you could (a) attempt to tighten the bolt, (b) click the "report bad bolts/anchors" on this page by the route name, and/or (c) go to www.badboltscom and report it.
10
Anonymous said on December 23rd, 2017
Sounded like they were going to report it so simmer down. And you act as if every climber, including yourself, started climbing with a wrench on their harness. For fuck's sake, hope you don't get any more axe body spray, you're a douchebag enough.
11
Anonymous said on December 27th, 2017
Every climber should have a wrench in their pack. Also, it seems to me they were not aware of option b or c. I'm pretty sure that Axe you are smelling is on your upper lip.
12
Anonymous said on December 27th, 2017
From their post, "I'll post this to the fix gear initiative board" Maybe they mean the one on here or the one in the guide, or the big one. Hard saying. And since when did carrying a wrench become a "norm" since I rarely see anyone with one, including those, "in the know" people barely want to have to hang their own draws or clean routes so why would they carry a wrench?
13
Anonymous said on December 27th, 2017
And if EVERY climber, new or old carried a wrench around; how long before every bolt head has been snapped off due to being over-tourqued? Just cuz you have the tools doesn't mean the know how is there. Many botched bolt jobs point to that.
14
Anonymous said on December 28th, 2017
If you are going to troll at least be funny or controversial, but don't spread BS. No one is going to over torque a loose bolt with small wrench. No one is going to snap a bolt head off without a breaker bar. Botched 5-piece bolt jobs are due to poor rock quality or holes drilled too big. if you can tighten it with a hand wrench, do it. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, it won't tighten, or it spins in the hole, then report it.
15
Anonymous said on December 28th, 2017
If it's an old rusty bolt, those can be overtourqued. Also, you have no idea what type of wrench they're packing. Everyone just says, "pack a wrench, blah blah" nobody says what type. And again, you're expecting the average sport climber to just instinctively know how tight to crank down on a bolt. I mean, if a little snug is good, then gorilla tight should be better.
16
CLIMBTRAD said on December 28th, 2017
Easy fellas, please move your debate to a real forum so we can all join in. Not the routes comment page. I bolted this little route. I will go out in the next week or two and check it out. Wont be the first time I've had to use an Adjustable wrench on it. I may just replace it with a glue in. This particular bolt receives alot of falls from inexperienced climbers and belayers, some experienced too. The bolt it's self is pretty bomber. The sandstone behind the hanger is just wearing away. Very common with newer routes. So yeah if your just a sport climber then it would make sents to maybe carry a small adjustable wrench in your pack for such bolts. Not unheard of along with a few quick links.. Sorry i was going save that for the new To carry a wrench or not thread someone should start. Its been so boring on here lately! But atleast he reported it which is more than most do. Oh and he didn't post anonymously, like most do. Pussy ass anonymous scared to own my words.. My newest route name, I promis. Thanx and cheers have a good day. Patrick Miller.
17
Anonymous said on December 29th, 2017
Most of the people I climb with (myself included) carry a wrench and a couple quicklinks, when people say small they mean 6-8" long. The head is most commonly 9/16", and a combination wrench or adjustable crescent wrench is sufficient. You're unlikely to damage a half inch bolt with a wrench this size, no need to yard on it, just tighten it up snug. I'd be happy to show anyone what the appropriate torque is. These SS bolts will last a long time if we tighten the spinners as we notice them, if you're saavy enough to be reading this forum you should be the one at the crag with a wrench.
18
Anonymous said on January 8th, 2018
can you show us why they named a route Fuzzy Muffin after your ass super safe ian?
19
CLIMBTRAD said on January 8th, 2018
Named inspired from a muffin i bought at koops with some fuzzy mold growing on it