Lightning Zap (Project)

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Secret Garden

Hippie Lip Balm


2.
+0
0 votes

Stinky Johnny 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Scott Curran in 2014
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This technical, sustained face climb begins on a boulder left Hippie Lip Balm.
Moves: Balancy
Descent: Bolt anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
vertical (1) technical (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.64 stars (14 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (9 votes)

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Comments

1
Anonymous said on August 8th, 2014
Funky movement and cool features on this one, definitely recommended.
2
Spikeddem said on May 25th, 2015
I think the bolt above the hueco rest needs to be put a little higher--people who are 6' 4" can still hang the draw from a good stance... :p Fun route though
3
Chiyram said on May 25th, 2015
Cool route, fun boulder problems. Pretty stout for 11a though. Especially if "So What?" is 11b and is easier than this route.
4
mbrunell said on May 27th, 2015
I agree with Spikeddem. being under 6' gave hanging the draw an extra 'pucker' factor. a couple holds broke on me and it still needs a little more traffic to clean it up. overall I thought it was really fun. felt pretty hard for 11a for me.
5
bcircell said on October 12th, 2015
Super enjoyable. Just the right amount of spice. Highly recommended.
6
amarius said on November 16th, 2016
Can't believe this gets only 3 stars, the pucker factor should be at least +1. One less foot near the anchors now
7
J-Ru said on October 2nd, 2017
This is a very good route. It requires some creativity. There is more than one crux which will have you thinking that there are no holds. I attempted and retreated back to a stance 4 or 5 times before committing. Good stuff!
8
caribe said on April 24th, 2019
Nice job on this one Boyz! <3 Climb this route! The big hug leaks water pretty liberally. A frog leaped out of it and sailed with appendages spread out. We were able to avoid the super wet parts though.
9
caribe said on April 24th, 2019
There has to be a continuous gunky canal from the jug to a puddle at the top of the cliff for the frog to jump out of the jug. :-)