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No Brain, No Pain

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

Short by a Foot

1 votes

Dain Bramage 5.10d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Alan Prechtel, Steve Simpson in 2014
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Right of No Brain, No Pain. Start on powerful pockets to ledge. Move off roof jugs to seam that leads to another ledge. Traverse left carefully and then ride the arÍte up to the anchors.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
pockets (1) technical (1) pumpy (1) arete (1)
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Quality Consensus

3.2 stars (49 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (35 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 5th, 2014


jkpugel said on October 27th, 2014
First off, thanks to people for putting in time and effort bolting routes for the masses. As for this route don't expect anything clean as the first large ledge was almost completely wet and the second was full of sand. The top of the route is covered with lichen and there's quite a bit of drag lowering off. However, if dirt doesn't bother you or you can forget about it for a minute, you can actually have fun on this route.
slaps said on October 27th, 2014
Thanks, we plan to make some adjustments at some point soon. That 2nd ledge and traverse are adventuring climbing at it's best though huh!
slaps said on November 29th, 2014
Thanks to whoever swept the 2nd ledge more. Chains now added to the anchors, should help the rope drag a little bit.
dustonian said on December 18th, 2014
Cool route. Try not to deck clipping the third bolt.
Catawaba said on March 31st, 2015
currently still pretty chossy, broke off a lot of holds as we climbed it but was fun adventure style climbing and will only get better as it cleans up
Jackiefreesh said on May 16th, 2015
Just like on No Brain, No Pain, I broke a big hand hold going to third bolt and dropped 20'. I know I'm gettin old but not gettin that fat. I really liked working through the ledge moves and traverse.
climb2core said on July 26th, 2015
Fun climbing. Again bolt spacing could be a bit closer to reduce the chance of hitting your belayer or the deck. Stick clipped 2nd on all these
DrRockso said on July 27th, 2015
Fun route. A little crumbly still but nothing broke.
Jeff said on September 26th, 2015
Thank the first in your group for cleaning the end for you. Fun adventure!
slaps said on November 28th, 2015
Bolt added between 2&3, now is 9 bolts.
Chiyram said on February 8th, 2016
I and two other people climbed this and we all were breaking holds. I spent about 10 minutes cleaning the last half of this so the two people after me had a little better time. Not recommended.
J-Ru said on February 8th, 2016
I whipped just before the third b/c of a broken hold -- may be worth stick clipping the second bolt until it cleans up. After Chiyram's cleaning work, I enjoyed the route. There are two ways to do the crux (long reach left and cut feet or use the two finger pocket and some fancy footwork to the second ledge) and both are pretty fun.
Anonymous said on February 8th, 2016
Zach, stop being such a fatty! -Your secret admirer.
morlebeke said on March 12th, 2016
thought this was a super cool route with tons of variety, I liked the couple ledge rests you get. if you like problem solving routes you'll like this route
Anonymous said on August 27th, 2016
Just climbed the route , still needs to be traveled more so it cleans up. thought it was will worth the advanture factor ... I will do it again for sure , great warm up for projects in the gallery
caribe said on September 26th, 2016
Sept 25, 2016, nothing broke. Great route!
Sloth said on September 30th, 2016
Does anyone know the name of the route to the right of this climb? Its right before the 12a. Cant find it listed anywhere.
Anonymous said on September 30th, 2016
It's called Who Gives a Fuck?
Anonymous said on September 30th, 2016
usmcmars said on June 2nd, 2017
Holds are still breaking. I am fat. Awkward is an understatement getting onto the ledge.
Savage said on April 29th, 2019
I thought this was a really good route with lots of variety and cool movement for a 10d. Definitely underrated and well worth your time. Only complaint is the anchor placement and resulting rope drag over the lip. The ropes are wearing grooves into the rock and it rains sand on you as you lower. I'd rather see the route stop at the last draw.
lilgilby said on October 20th, 2019
Definitely the best of all the crusty 10s flanking Starry Night. Overall a good little climb.