All Draws & No Brains

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

Dain Bramage


1.
+1
1 votes

No Brain, No Pain 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Alan Prechtel, Steve Simpson in 2014
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just before leftmost end of cliff, locate a pocketed face 95 feet left of huge cave. Levitate to sharp starting holds, then work right to a corpulent flake. Paddle up a steep pocketed face to a ledge.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
pockets (1) bouldery (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

2.64 stars (44 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (37 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 5th, 2014

Comments

1
Lander said on October 27th, 2014
Sketchy holds and possible ground fall going from first to second bolt. Recommend stick clipping second.
2
dustonian said on December 18th, 2014
Nice route. You guys need to place your anchor bolts a bit further apart in soft rock.
3
Catawaba said on March 31st, 2015
I second lander, will get better with time. We stick clipped the 2nd bolt
4
monty4355 said on April 5th, 2015
I thought the rock quality was great. Nice job cleaning. Sketchy to second bolt. Fun route!
5
Jackiefreesh said on May 16th, 2015
Should have read these comments first. I broke three holds while trying to get to the second bolt. Gave up the lead and just TR'd it.
6
climb2core said on July 26th, 2015
Good line, nothing broke today. All of these lines need to have bolt one higher, or at least bolt 2 closer.
7
amarius said on March 28th, 2016
First hanger is loose
8
climb2core said on March 28th, 2016
Did you try tightening it?
9
Raiden said on March 3rd, 2019
First bolt and left anchor bolt are spinners and rusted. Tried tightening with a 9/16” wrench but it was too big (hex head is smaller).
10
climb2core said on August 19th, 2019
Full Rebolt on this. It was bolted with 3/8” x 3” bolts in very soft rock. I’m truly amazed a bolt didn’t pull. Upgraded to glue ins and first bolt was moved up. Thx to the community and Access Fund helping to fund the FGI hardware and to bad bolts for the crucial bolt reports
11
Anonymous said on August 19th, 2019
Are there other death routes out there bolted by this idioit? Man, I thought Joe Kinder was the only moron to use the wrong bolts here. Be careful out there people, you might just die warming up on a chossy turd