Lighting Rod Arete

This route is located in the Southern Region at Velo Crag

Krypton


2.
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Old People Are Awesome 5.8 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Dan Beck, Rae Hartley, Drew Stewart in 2013
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Stays shady. Climb the chimney and offwidth that separates the two pinnacles on the north side. Top out, enjoy the view, wonder what the steel rod embedded in the pinnacle was for, and rap from chains.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Bolt anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

1.33 stars (3 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (2 votes)

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Comments

1
KhaoticKlimber said on October 9th, 2016
I am not sure what the reasoning is for classifying this as a 5.8 trad. It doesn't seem possible to use gear for this, as it is pretty much a chimney climb. Me and a friend of mine knew of this chimney, and randomly set out one day to climb up through it, having no idea it was classified as a 5.8 trad. All you have to do is stand up from a ledge through the bottom of the chimney and push down with your elbows in order to lift your lower body up and through. This maneuver may prove difficult for larger folk, as it is a tight squeeze, but if you suck in that gut and muster a decent amount of upper body strength, you can make it. No gear of any kind needed; just scary as all hell. Once you squirm through the bottom, it's as easy as ladder climbing to reach the top. If you're feeling froggy, you can even down-climb out of the chimney instead of rappelling at the top, like I not-so-smartly did. Simply step down through the bottom onto the starting ledge and you're golden. Just don't stumble on your way out; it's quite a drop.