Lanterne Rouge

This route is located in the Southern Region at Velo Crag

On Beyond Velodrome


8.
+1
1 votes

A Cat Amongst the Pigeons 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dan Beck, Matt Tackett in 2010
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Equipped by Matt Tackett. Pull a bouldery start, then swim up easy horizontals to a big move. Work up the small flake system then get technical to tackle the opposing micro-dihedrals that guard the path to the chains.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Bolt anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.47 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (9 votes)

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Comments

1
Wolf said on October 16th, 2014
This route's start isn't great, but it gets better and better as it goes. I'm sure it needs cleaning again, but the top half is fantastic.
2
JR said on May 26th, 2015
Cool name. The bottom half is filthy and fragile may never clean up but fairly easy. The upper part is dirty. Having said that....The 2 or 3 bolt of upper section are interesting and fun. Very cool moves.
3
anticlmber said on August 9th, 2016
This route is great. Lil bit of choss/sand but not really an issue. Awesome movement and super interesting climb. The bottom half is good. The top half is pretty F'n unique. Worth the walk
4
Chiyram said on October 22nd, 2017
This route must have cleaned up because nothing felt like it was going to break. I brushed some ledges and holds and seems like an awesome route. 5.10 up until the last three bolts. No one move was hard just sustained and technical up top.
5
nitrousstone said on May 26th, 2018
My favorite type of climb. The one where the business is at the top! Make sure to put your buddies that say the red is only jug hauling on this one
6
shadow.ayala said on July 29th, 2019
Great route! Very cool features and climbing at the top. A must do for the grade.
7
climbhigh said on July 29th, 2019
stoked people are enjoying this one. i always thought the top was well worth the bolts and getting through the bottom