A Cat Amongst the Pigeons

This route is located in the Southern Region at Velo Crag

Anchors with no route


9.
+1
1 votes

On Beyond Velodrome 5.12c (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Dan Beck in 2014
Length: 90ft
Gear: Gear: small cams up to #3 BD, Stoppers (report bad anchors)

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Gear: small cams up to #3 BD, Stoppers. Morning shade. Start in the back of the dihedral and work your way up and out to the arete. Work up easy terrain until you encounter a steep bit of 5.11 guarding the entrance to the velodrome hueco. Once in the hueco, plug a #3 in the roof and rest up. When you feel ready to venture beyond the velodrome, crank up and out through some tough boulder problems with edges, locks, and hidden pockets.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Bolt anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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4 stars (1 votes)
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5.12c (1 votes)

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Comments

1
Wolf said on October 16th, 2014
SPOILER ALERT: Gear Beta: Take stoppers. You can climb up in the hueco and place a bomber size 8 (BD sizing) stopper then jump down before you commit to the moves. There's also a nice #4 BD stopper at the crux that I welded with a few falls.
2
JR said on May 26th, 2015
Kinda surprised the line to the left of this beast is not bolted....