Spider Monkey

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Chaos

Mary Anne

1 votes

Mike Mulligan 5.11c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Ray Ellington, Kipp Trummel in 2014
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
As with the previous line start way back in a cave on a jug about seven feet off the deck. No really, it starts here. The scary looking jugs in the roof are actually pretty solid. Get a few spots and boulder out to a difficult exit onto the plated face. 5.7 climbing takes you to a large of ledge where part two of this route begins; a nice sustained overhanging face with big pulls between decent edges.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus

3.07 stars (14 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (13 votes)

You must login to save your input!
+ add
+ add



Submitted by: ray
Date: Oct 27th, 2014


pigsteak said on October 27th, 2014
this and the next line were named for the sand at the base and one of America's top 100 children's books of all time.
climb2core said on October 27th, 2014
Fun and unique roof down low leads to a high crux. Seems like the worst of the low choss in the cave has broken off but make sure you have a spot and choose wisely ;)
krampus said on October 28th, 2014
really fun boulder start to some nice climbing above
Cromper said on May 5th, 2015
Terror choss start to an enjoyable overhanging finish.
pigsteak said on May 6th, 2015
cromper, did anything break on you..? it does feel like a walk thru a sand castle down there;)
dustonian said on May 6th, 2015
No comment for the bottom. Top half is awesome!
pigsteak said on May 6th, 2015
Lol...fair enuf. We always had a good spot for sure😊
johnwesely said on May 6th, 2015
Anyone else think this thing is really hard? Felt harder than almost all 12a's and some 12b's
Anonymous said on May 6th, 2015
I flashed it so it's not a 12 -jballz
caribe said on June 13th, 2015
This route is cleaning up quite nicely. The cave portion looks much worse than it actually climbs! Wait until a few successive average dry weeks to get on it.
Jeff said on June 13th, 2015
Fun climb for sure! Have a spotter for the start.
brayackmedia said on March 20th, 2017
We broke some stuff coming out the roof. With traffic, this would be a good route, but right now, its probably a 1 star route. I would say 11d or even 12a maybe.
Anonymous said on April 19th, 2017
climbed this the other day(super fun). Found the quick link on the perma almost open, tightened it as much as i could by hand but didn't have a wrench as we flew in, if someone could lug a wrench up that'd be great....