COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.


This route is located in the Miller Fork at Chaos

Left Coast

0 votes

Broken Dreams 5.8 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Russ Jackson in 2014
Length: 20ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This seductive offwidth ends so quickly you may get blue balls. Luckily you can hide on the ledge and finish off.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

3.2 stars (10 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (7 votes)

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Submitted by: kman154
Date: Dec 17th, 2014


dustonian said on October 28th, 2014
haha great route description!
rjackson said on December 14th, 2014
NOT a sport line . . . And takes big cams (6s), unless you want to treat it as a highball (which I would not recommend.
kman154 said on December 15th, 2014
This was a super awesome fun lead!! It is a shame it does not go on for another 20 or 30 feet. Couple 6s for sure. Really fun!
Anonymous said on May 6th, 2015
It's not a sport line? But I thought trad meant bolts every two feet.
coolbreeze said on December 5th, 2016
Attempted after a hard season of training and projecting. The first pitch to the ledge went alright, although i forgot my tape. Luckily I was within reach of my partner, who handed it to me. I taped up and began throwing myself at the wide crack. After what seemed like an eternity, I became thoroughly exhausted and decided to set a belay near the hueco on the right face. I told my partner of my plan, but he convinced me to continue to the summit. I tried with all my might, but was unable to gather the strength for the final push. Falling out of the crack was one of the scariest experiences of my life. As I lay there, dangling from the end of the rope, I look up and feel the emptiness you feel when your dreams are truly broken. After an experience like this, I don't think I'm going to toprope anymore offwidths.