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Creepy Karpis

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Alcatraz

Traumatized Turtle


11.
+0
0 votes

Dope on a Rope 5.11b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Ian Kirk in 2014
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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The juggier and steeper of the lines on this wall. Reach high for a deep horizontal to pull over a small roof and into a quick pockety section. After that, enjoy the fun flow of good old fashioned Red River steep jug hauling complete with a no-hands double knee bar rest. Remember though, another trait of those old fashioned jug hauls is to spit in your face right at the chains.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.68 stars (25 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (22 votes)

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Submitted by: climb2core
Date: Oct 29th, 2014

Submitted by: ray
Date: Oct 28th, 2014

Comments

1
climb2core said on October 29th, 2014
This one puts a smile on my face every time I climb it. Don't cheat yourself at the anchors and clip from below. Throw for it and I promise you won't be disappointed.
2
pigsteak said on October 29th, 2014
very nice line..Ian finally...finally...found something worth bolting;)..thanks for the hard work and stellar line.
3
AdamDugan said on September 25th, 2016
This route now has 10 or 11 bolts plus anchors.
4
climb2core said on September 25th, 2016
I didn't put em there. I added one when I first bolted it but that count seems high.
5
lena_chita said on October 12th, 2016
10 bolts at least. I thought I had two extra draws, based on guidebook description, and I ended up having to grab a draw from a lower bolt in order to have something for the anchors.
6
lena_chita said on October 13th, 2016
Also, the last bolt was a spinner. Nothing wrong with it, as far as I could tell. I hand-tightened it, didn't have a wrench. But maybe someone with a wrench could give it a little tightening soon.
7
climb2core said on October 14th, 2016
Looks like you didn't send yet. Come back for the tick and bring a wrench this time! ;)
8
climb2core said on May 21st, 2017
Bolts seemed good on this today... Thx to Jeff who recently tightened the loose one down.
9
Rusty said on June 6th, 2017
10 bolts. Not my cup of tea - sandy ledge hopping