Red Fern

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Alcatraz

Sweet Petunia


22.
+0
0 votes

Man with a Wooden Leg 5.10c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel in 2014
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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There are two lines exiting the large orange hueco roof blob. This is the left one. Traverse a dirty shelf to reach the roof and pull on precarious jugs to get onto the face where the fun begins. A variety of underclings, crimps, and high steps make this route fairly technical but it still overhangs enough to deliver a nice pump. Glue ins.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.81 stars (16 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (16 votes)

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Comments

1
StepLEFTskyline said on October 9th, 2015
Fun but dirty. Bring a stick clip.
2
pigsteak said on October 14th, 2015
a looong stick clip;)
3
lukaslooby said on April 17th, 2016
9 bolts*
4
lena_chita said on October 12th, 2016
I want a ladder leading up to the roof. :) Seriously, I think it would improve the quality of the route. I thought it was close to 5 stars from 1st bolt to the anchors. Loved the underclings with thumb catches! But the start sucks at least two stars out of it, and it isn't going to "clean up" with time.
5
Horatio Felacio said on May 14th, 2017
Another horrible start removes most of anything that's worthy on this one. Enjoy.
6
ray said on May 16th, 2017
Yea Horatio, when you do nothing but make up big stories about a double lung transplant and do nothing but auto-belay (because you can't find a partner) in a pristine gym environment for about 5 years I can see how dirt would be scary.
7
climbhigh said on May 16th, 2017
I saw in the last 100 comments that HF and Ray commented. I thought, man, this will be like old time. Weak sauce from both of you but I guess old age has taken its course.
8
whoneedsfeet said on May 16th, 2017
Hey it's better than Lena complaining about the holds being 4'6" off the ground and wanting a ladder.