Lucy in the Sky

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Fruit Wall

Slice of Spice


28.
+0
0 votes

Orchard Pests 5.10a (Trad) **

First Ascent: Art Cammers, Dustin Stephens in 2014
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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The low-angle to vertical dihedral capped by a roof. Be careful grappling the block before the roof. There are anchors on the ledge in the middle of the wall.
Moves: Balancy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.1 stars (10 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (10 votes)

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Comments

1
dustonian said on November 6th, 2014
awesome laybacking and a crazy frickin crux! good times working on this one with you caribe. take a brush if you're so inclined.
2
caribe said on November 10th, 2014
Most definitely Dustin, good times.
3
ray said on April 12th, 2015
Sorry Art but this isn't what I remember 4 star 5.11b trad feeling like. Put this next to B3 and Inhibitor and tell me what you think. 2 star 5.10a.
4
dustonian said on April 12th, 2015
For me the crux on this was harder than either of those routes. Maybe you figured out a good sequence.
5
Artsay said on April 13th, 2015
FWIW we each did the crux totally different and both thought the same difficulty (and star rating). Maybe the FA Fairy sprinkled her fairy dust on you guys and glamoured you into a different memory?
6
dustonian said on April 13th, 2015
Whatever happened to just being psyched on doing the second ascent of a cool little corner?
7
ray said on April 14th, 2015
Don't take it personally man, you didn't build the corner. Just giving Art shit because he loves to say how hard trad is then rates a dirty10a corner 11b and slaps 4 stars on it. You're just collateral damage.
8
dustonian said on April 14th, 2015
It doesn't hurt my feelings, but what about the poor little dihedral?? In retrospect we should have left more dirt and deathblocks for you guys to feel more invested in its well-being.
9
shadow.ayala said on April 19th, 2015
fun. worth climbing. I hope that block doesn't go anywhere.
10
caribe said on April 19th, 2015
I think the difference is Dustin and I climbed it without smearing on the lichen covered face. We sent the route and everyone else walked the face. It's all good. What went down here happened before. I'm convinced you are right after watching people climb it. The top is not so good. You guys are merciless, but I love you anyway.
11
Artsay said on April 24th, 2015
FWIW I didn't climb the face and 10a felt right on. Climbing out the cracky roof section was super fun! Thanks for the line, guys! :-)
12
dfspau2 said on May 21st, 2015
Lichen crux... Felt 10c ish to me? What ever it is, it will clean up to be a fun little corner!
13
brhe224 said on June 3rd, 2015
took a brush to this sucker, it'll be much more fun now (not as much skating off lichen). Low 10 felt right to me
14
Danny said on March 29th, 2016
Loved it!
15
LKeush said on April 14th, 2018
If this thing ever cleaned up it would be a good route..hope that death block doesn't go anywhere...low 10 felt spot on.