Mango Love

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Fruit Wall

Drag City


25.
+0
0 votes

Heath Ledger 5.10c R (Sport) **

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Austin Hogue in 2014
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 12 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This interesting adventure line begins up in the corner left of Mango Love. If you can make it to the slab up top without breaking an ankle due to potential ledge falls you get a short run of nice slab climbing.
Moves: Balancy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.4 stars (15 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (9 votes)

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Comments

1
dustonian said on November 6th, 2014
This one is a sport route with 11 or 12 bolts and fairly 'R' due to the ledge out potential. Pretty unique and fun otherwise tho. Hope to get sticks on the ledges and the belay zone decked out sometime this season.
2
Spikeddem said on November 6th, 2014
Sounds like an intriguing novelty route.
3
dustonian said on November 7th, 2014
That's one way to put it. I didn't clean this one much but the rock is good. Also the anchor will be moved up at some point to reduce rope abrasion while cleaning.
4
climb2core said on February 11th, 2015
This was the first route of Dustin's but I looked up from the ground and actually did not want to climb. I am sure I will head back and get on at some point. But not a looker from the ground.
5
Cromper said on February 11th, 2015
Cmon, it's a 5.10 version of Kaleidoscope ;)
6
dustonian said on February 11th, 2015
It's definitely no King Ducky, that's for sure. On that note, if anyone brushes this route for more than 10 minutes I will buy them a cold delicious malted beverage of their choosing. The top slab after pulling around the arete feature up high is pretty sublime.
7
whoneedsfeet said on February 11th, 2015
I heard something about beer and brushing.
8
dustonian said on February 11th, 2015
I also said slab tho
9
Jeff said on February 11th, 2015
Actually it's fun, especially the slab up top. Still a bit of choss around ankle breaking territory, you'll want to make sure you get the holds you really want through there and don't fall. Not recommended for anyone sketchy at the grade. Unless you stick clip mid route, but who does that?
10
Chiyram said on May 24th, 2015
Thus route was almost enjoyable. Wish I had a shovel and broom to clean it up.
11
Chiyram said on May 26th, 2015
I will say, the chains on this are in a horrible place. I'm assuming it's to cut rope drag. I wish I had some more chain to extend them out.
12
Scorl said on June 8th, 2015
I liked it. The variety of climbing was lots of fun.The dirt that is there didn't really bother me. The ledge is certainly a risk. Long draws in the right places can reduce some of the drag. If you clean it on top rope you get all of the fun, none of the risk, and only a little bit of the rope drag.
13
DrRockso said on August 11th, 2015
"Fun" to do once, probably won't be back on it. With lots of scrubbing I think some more holds will appear, the bottom seemed pretty chossy but didn't break much off. Didn't have any problem clipping anchors with current chain length but a shorter person might have some difficulty. Rope drag wasn't bad just watch your rope as you are getting lowered over the sharp edge of the roof. Slab at the top is very cool though a little scary with the dirt on it still.
14
Anonymous said on July 11th, 2016
actually fun in a trad climbing on bolts kind of way. dirty af compared to most sport routes 'round these parts but nice variety of climbing and memorable upper part.