Brain Damage

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Tarr Ridge

Merkin Dream


4.
+0
0 votes

Prohibition 5.10a (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Scott Hammon in 2014
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Cross the steel bridge and make a left on the gravel road towards Indian Creek. Continue around a bend in the road to the right. Park somewhere here at one of the small pulloffs before the obvious party camping/parking spot for the Dome. Hike straight up the hill to this beautiful orange southwest-facing wall (afternoon sun). You can also shwack left from the previous three routes at this crag, but it sucks big time. This route is the obvious dihedral on the right side of the orange wall. Fingers to a short squeeze to perfect hands that go on forever followed by an exciting slab finish... a small-medium cam or two protects this part but look carefully. This one is up there with Rock Wars and Jim's Dihedral as far as quality goes.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Rap from tree
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.67 stars (3 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (2 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Nov 15th, 2014

Comments

1
hamsco said on January 2nd, 2015
Dustin's spot on...... This is one nice crack. A must do.
2
Anonymous said on January 2nd, 2015
hard to believe its up there with Rock Wars looking at the picture. Looks crispy and green.
3
njclimber said on March 31st, 2015
Gps: 37.83941, 83.65619 really good route. Well worth the hike. Solid rock.
4
Anonymous said on March 31st, 2015
There are two or three others up there that haven't been added yet... a 5.10 with a sketchy start to the left and a cool 5.9 squeeze left of that
5
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2015
I climbed this last winter. The route is good, but with no trail, you better really like trad to endure the rhodo jungle bushwack. I would never attempt this approach during the summer. Also, mixed feelings about the new bolts at the top given the bolting ban.
6
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2015
bolts, what bolts? Shut yo butt tattle tale anon