COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Moment of Truth

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bob Marley Crag

No Redemption

0 votes

Archangel 5.12 (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Sarah Gross in 2014
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start on ledge 10 feet left of No Redemption. Follow the heavenly arching line of crimps and pockets on perfect golden stone to the anchors below the roof.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

3.57 stars (14 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (13 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Dec 8th, 2020

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Mar 15th, 2015


Anonymous said on December 5th, 2014
way to bolt right over that crack, sweet!
climb2core said on December 5th, 2014
Perhaps a bolting approval process should be considered at well established crags to consider the value of adding a line.
Anonymous said on December 5th, 2014
does anybody hear that noise in the distance? it sounds like a grinder getting closer and closer.
Anonymous said on December 5th, 2014
people have looked at this obvious line and rejected it for years because it's too close to NR and the crack. congratulations on lowering the bar!
Anonymous said on December 5th, 2014
I hear it , but it sounds more like some scared whiny punks singing up for an ass whoopin.
Anonymous said on December 6th, 2014
Dont slap the route if yer shakey at the grade
Anonymous said on December 6th, 2014
Wonder which crag Troy and his cronies will grid bolt to death next. At this point it just needs to be fire bombed and fenced off to alleviate future human suffering.
shadow.ayala said on December 6th, 2014
Fuck the Anons!! They are a meek, wimpy, savage bunch that stare at themselves in the mirror but hide when they speak. I've had my shit chopped. You might too. But do your thing! Keep in mind that every climbing area has its own ethic. We all learn this the easy way or the hard way. Either way, fuck the Anons!!
Anonymous said on December 6th, 2014
Too bad others have nothing better to do than post outrageous comments online. I've seen several people climb this line and no one was climbing in the crack at all. And, if your climbing the mixed route you aren't venturing out onto the pocketed line. Many other routes in the Red are far closer together and many share the same starts or the same finishes even. This does neither. If this constitutes grid bolting then there are many routes at well established places that have to be chopped.
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2014
Nice route on good stone. I didn't think it was too close to the crack; I know I've been on other routes that were closer together than those two. Worth doing for sure, and one of the prettiest lines at Marley.
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2014
Looked fine to me, fuck you people
Anonymous said on March 15th, 2015
being anti anonymous is lame. it attempts to displace whatever reasoned or passionate perspective with personality and political allegiance/ideology. and for bolting EVEN CLOSE to cracks is lame... ...but winning the race to the bottom, well, as long as the other guy started it-
Anonymous said on December 6th, 2015
Anonymous said on December 6th, 2015
Not to state the obvious but the crack to the left already has its own set of bolts on it from the person who first aided the line. No one climbs that dirty, pigeon infested crack other than the first two with the FA and aid FA. Has anyone ever seen someone climb it since? Nope. If it didn't get slimmed with pigeon poo and silt from rain - and if it didn't have bolts on it and was a true pure trad climb maybe it would actually get climbed - maybe not? Third, no one climbing the crack would ever get close to or even think about using the bolts on Archangel. Period. It would take the climber way out of the crack line and they wouldn't be able to get back into it. Archangel is totally separate line, not too close and just isn't an issue at all. Too bad egos get in the way of common sense. Several people were talking about bolting it - it was going to be done by someone. It is a great climb that will actually see lots of traffic. No silt or pigeon poo on it. Fun interesting movement, aesthetic and something the masses can enjoy. Great addition.
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2015
Cool story.
eduard said on November 15th, 2016
Very fun movement! Just wish it wasn't as sharp - last big move is to a razor blade.
nitrousstone said on October 31st, 2018
This thing is rad. Bolted well. Sick movement. Vert boulder to stem/ standup then dope sequencey pockets and a few crimp edges to the finish.
Cromper said on November 25th, 2019
Great movement on this, however rock is already starting to eat the bolts.
JeffCastro said on November 9th, 2020
Currently missing the last bolt. When i tried to tighten it today it fell out and was too bent to latch onto the cone when i tried to put it back in. I'm planning to rebolt the entire route this week and will update on here when it's finished.
DrRockso said on November 9th, 2020
Hey Jeff, FGI can you get you the gear if you don't have gear from them already.
AidClimber said on November 9th, 2020
Did anyone consult the mayor?
Anonymous said on November 9th, 2020
6-year lifespan for the hardware in this one haha 🙄
JeffCastro said on November 13th, 2020
New bolts are in. Enjoy.
said on November 13th, 2020
You're the man! Thanks a bunch!
Anonymous said on November 13th, 2020
lol mjdagg why comment even comment on a climb that you have no business being near. Stick to your stiff 10+ squeeze jobs, or use promocode "delusional" for 10% off a power company training plan
Anonymous said on November 13th, 2020
Why comment on a comment when you have no business displaying your 3rd grade writing skills in public?
whoneedsfeet said on November 13th, 2020
That just goes to show he’s a true “local”
said on November 13th, 2020
Lol, Hoctor. Btw, thanks also to Michael Hargis for supporting this rebolt. Hopefully Sarah's routes will be enjoyed by many future generations of climbers. Wish I could have met her.
sigrah said on November 15th, 2020
Thank you for rebolting and upgrading with stainless steel glue ins. RIP Sarah
Raiden said on November 20th, 2020
Fun route. Thanks for the new bolts Jeff. It's funny / sad to read the old comments on routes like this one, Enjoy the Process, etc and see them turn into 3.5-star routes. Fuck the anons.
Cromper said on November 20th, 2020
Would be nice for this route to get an actual grade. I feel like it would get the traffic it deserves.
vertical1 said on November 21st, 2020
Is 5.12 not a grade? JK, but yeah I understand what you are saying Cromper