The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

Lost in Space


1.
+3
3 votes

Party Time 5.7 (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Bob Molzon in 1977
Length: 140ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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As the approach trail nears the wall, look for a trail that branches off to the right. Take this trail up to the wall and look for the first dihedral, about 60 feet right of a main arete. Follow the crack to bolted anchor on the first ledge and belay. Continue up the crack to a larger ledge which ends a few feet from the top and belay.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
hands (2) classic (2) beautiful (2) long (1) exposed (1) fun (1) juggy (1) dihedral (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.5 stars (103 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (71 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: DrRockso
Date: Jun 13th, 2013

Submitted by: DrRockso
Date: Jun 13th, 2013

Submitted by: possum2082
Date: Apr 26th, 2009

Submitted by: Sketch
Date: May 25th, 2006

Submitted by: Sketch
Date: May 25th, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Wes said on June 4th, 2005
Easy to do in one long (~110 feet) pitch. One 70 meter rope will get you to the ground from the top in one rap. Fun!
2
pigsteak said on July 23rd, 2005
Too bad the first pitch is so sandy. The left wall is complete choss. Otherwise, this would be a classic. As it is, I wouldn't climb it again.
3
B.J. said on October 25th, 2006
I definately liked the second pitch more than the first. I'm a beginning trad leader and I found this route easy to protect.
4
ElectricDisciple said on March 11th, 2007
This was my third or fourth Trad lead. Very sustained climbing the entire second pitch. Good no-hands rest up half-way. Webbing and links look good and have some life left in them. Five stars are well worth it for this climb.
5
rrgclimber said on July 15th, 2007
the best 5.7 in the gorge. it takes tri-cams very good. this climb is a classic.
6
Anonymous said on July 29th, 2007
i take that back not the best 5.7 in the gorge. rrgclimber
7
thenutz said on October 8th, 2007
Finally, got around to climbing this climb. Me and my partner have both been away from the climbing scene for awhile. This climb was a very fun route to start back getting into the climbing scene again. Bottom i will say was a bit chossy and wide a little funky. The top second pitch was very exposed and well worth climbing the first pitch. All in all very good route protects great, would like to see a better set-up on the top for the belay/rap station if anyone would like to redo with longer chains let me know i have the gear for a retro fit.
8
kidney_dave said on May 12th, 2008
left a couple of new lockers on the anchors @ the top of the second pitch, the ones there were non lockers and shady as hell...
9
colombo said on July 9th, 2008
Lockers are gone! Someone decided they needed them more. I thought this was a great route. Highly recommend. I agree with the anchors also. Bolts with washer holding chain, very old school, but they aren't wore just rusty.
10
kidney_dave said on July 9th, 2008
i will be back to fortress soon, guess i will drag along a few more lockers... :( it's sad people can't leave things well enough alone...it's not like those were bail biners...........
11
Jeff said on July 11th, 2008
http://teamsuckclimbing.com/reportbadbolts.php may go up there this week and take care of them
12
CLIMBTRAD said on October 15th, 2008
great
13
NateS GR said on October 16th, 2008
This route is awesome!! I've climbed it several time and will probably climb it several more. If you're a beginning trad climber, this is a must do.
14
elcapitan1974 said on November 14th, 2008
Classic hand crack. Rock alittle rotten on first pitch, second pitch is the bomb. Perfect topout. Anchors need to be updated with longer chains. no lockers in play. Steller route
15
possum2082 said on April 26th, 2009
new favorite route. 1st pitch is good. 2nd pitch is unbelievable. great exposure. fun moves (i even enjoyed the mini offwidth). we need the top anchors fixed (old bolts that stick out too far with washers and chains).
16
G-rock said on May 9th, 2009
wapretty easy even 4 me im 8 years old
17
pkananen said on June 14th, 2009
the first 40 feet is not good...after that it is really good. one pitch with a 60 is doable, but still takes 2 raps with a 60 meter.
18
Bluelopez100 said on February 7th, 2010
Top 5 trad lines in my book! Great climb! First pitch was a little weird at the top. Second is the money pitch. Great exposure and fun climbing.
19
jrathfon said on May 17th, 2010
great route. lots of fun to start the day. typical amount of sand and choss (not too much) for a gorge trad route (lots of whiner's on here). would definitely be good for the beginning trad leader/multi-pitcher. good gear, hand size pieces mostly (1,2,3,4 BD). compared to RRG sport climbs the anchors aren't that great, but there are three beefy rusty bolts. good enough for me!
20
Anonymous said on June 12th, 2011
This climb was my first trad lead (2nd pitch). I'm so happy that I cleaned the 1st and lead the 2nd, it really made the experience memorable. The 2nd pitch anchors still haven't been changed to hangers like those at the end of the first pitch. I'd be happy to replace them if I had the know-how. Perhaps somebody with bolting experience would like to help me with it, I'll pay for the hardware. I want to climb it again! -Greg
21
CLIMBTRAD said on September 19th, 2011
New top anchor ss glue ins the wave bolt will come back next weekend to remove old anchor
22
rjackson said on January 31st, 2012
One long pitch equals awesome... (If you got the gear.)
23
cinciclimber2 said on February 20th, 2012
Has this ever been soloed naked? I aspire to be the first
24
kwagner059 said on July 9th, 2012
Climbed this one yesterday in one pitch with a 70 m rope and found a set of new anchors below the three old bolted ones mentioned here. Anyone considering not doing this due to the anchors should think again!
25
dustonian said on July 9th, 2012
many props to Patrick Miller for the hard work... buy this man a friggin beer people!! Or at least some glue and bolts to keep him going...
26
CLIMBTRAD said on July 9th, 2012
Sorry I have not got out to remove the old bolts.. I tryed like Hell to get em out but needed a breaker bar.. ill try soon to get out their soon
27
dustonian said on July 9th, 2012
night mission during the next heat wave dude!!
28
CLIMBTRAD said on July 9th, 2012
May as well, that's when I bolted it!!
29
DrRockso said on June 13th, 2013
2nd pitch is classic! Bring a 70m if you want to rap down in one go. Better than Bedtime for Bonzo.
30
DrRockso said on October 31st, 2016
Wedge Bolts at the top of 1st pitch updated with SS Wave Glue-Ins and new quicklinks. The Lap Links connecting the chain to the hangers of the old bolts were alarmingly worn.