COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Better than a Stick in the Eye

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Cloud 9

Rough Around the Edges

0 votes

Crazy Train 5.11d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: John Flunker, Dustin Stephens
Length: 85ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin atop a boulder on cheater stones and reach for a pair of good holds. Once established launch into a killer sequence of moves which quickly end with a tricky mantel onto a sloping ledge. If you've somehow ended up horizontal, getting stood back up may be the crux. Some of the biggest holds on the wall lead up the remainder of the route.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC

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4 stars (5 votes)
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5.11d (5 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: May 7th, 2015


dustonian said on February 12th, 2015
This was one is open now, FA with Flunker. Cool boulder problem down low to crazy ass jugs that go on forever with good rests. Will probably move the first bolt at some point, but it's ok for now as is.
ray said on April 28th, 2015
Felt like the easiest on the wall. Hardest part was mantling onto the whale belly then it's probably the biggest jugs on the wall for the rest of the way.
dustonian said on June 29th, 2015
Extend or back-clean the first draw to minimize rope draft
dustonian said on June 29th, 2015