Forerunner

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Vine Wall

Sweet Berry Wine


7.
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Shogun 5.11d R (Sport) *

First Ascent: Chris Martin in 2003
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin right of a corner and clip a high first bolt by scrambling up to a 6 foot ledge. 60 feet of terrifying climbing on sandy and fragile rock leads to a steep headwall with long reaches on deep pockets. Ledge fall potential going to the 2nd bolt so it is recommended to hang on the first bolt and stick clip it.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Comments

1
Michael_W said on February 4th, 2015
Rob McFall bolted this route and has the FA in 2003
2
ray said on February 4th, 2015
Hey Mike, Rob said that Chris bolted and FA'd this one.
3
ray said on April 16th, 2015
This thing is terrifying. No wonder the crusties think Miller Fork has bad rock. They started here.
4
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2015
A sport route in the red with an R rating? Is the rock quality that bad?
5
ray said on April 19th, 2015
A fall before the second bolt would result in a ledge fall and is very likely given the poor rock quality.
6
pigsteak said on May 25th, 2015
are you sure Ian didnt bolt this after On Thin Ice?
7
Anonymous said on May 25th, 2015
7 hours of driving, spend a day bolting in 30 degree temps and this is the thanks I get ;)