Time Wrinkle

This route is located in the Miller Fork at The Portal

Lights Out


3.
+1
1 votes

On Thin Ice 5.12c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: hasn't seen an FA
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 12 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This line begins on the slab on the inside of the left side of the arch. Climb the slab and exit as quickly as possible onto gargantuan grips beneath the steep side of the arch. Unclip your slab bolts to reduce drag then launch into a wild dance through nearly horizontal cave climbing. When you think it can't get any steeper a body length, flat roof with huge incut jugs guards the most difficult move on the route, a hard crank into the chain pod. This route is insane but unfortunately some may be hesitant to yank on the jugs. However, the FA assures us nothing will ever break.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.33 stars (6 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (3 votes)

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Submitted by: climb2core
Date: May 14th, 2015

Submitted by: climb2core
Date: May 14th, 2015

Submitted by: climb2core
Date: May 14th, 2015

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 22nd, 2015

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 22nd, 2015

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jan 28th, 2015

Comments

1
Anonymous said on January 27th, 2015
liked the Wormhole more
2
Andrew said on January 27th, 2015
There is a lot of routes around world called event horizon. Fyi
3
climb2core said on January 27th, 2015
Not sent yet, name will be finalized that day. I liked the meaning for the project though (beyond the point of return) Thx for the input.
4
tbwilsonky said on January 28th, 2015
Imminent Nomenclature (you're welcome!)
5
dustonian said on January 28th, 2015
this one should be named by 2019 at the very latest
6
climb2core said on January 28th, 2015
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKtwlHV1-O8
7
climb2core said on March 4th, 2015
This is open now. I will leave up my draws for a bit before pulling them. Really hard for me to grade as it is early in the year and I have little experience upper end 12. I think it is probably 12d, but won't be hurt at all if people think it should be 12c. The route name will be "On Thin Ice" and named for the vert start which had a thin layer of ice that I had to somehow press my feet on while laybacking for a couple of feet. Get on it and let me know what you think.
8
Anonymous said on March 4th, 2015
i had a pretty girlfriend in middle school who let me finger her muff. i called it 'if i had a drill'
9
Anonymous said on March 4th, 2015
How bout KFC? Kirk's Fucking Chosspile?
10
Cromper said on March 4th, 2015
Hehehe
11
Anonymous said on March 5th, 2015
Ha ha. Who voted 3 stars without ever getting on it? LMAO... nice.
12
Anonymous said on March 5th, 2015
the spray... it burns
13
climb2core said on March 5th, 2015
lol... the cool thing is that the quality and the difficulty have nothing to with this. What will burn, is when and if you do climb the route.. that you will have to admit, if even just yourself that is doesn't suck.
14
Anonymous said on March 5th, 2015
this developer will never last with such thin skin..is this his first route? sounds like he needs more experience before flapping jacking.
15
climb2core said on March 6th, 2015
Ironic that the anon that is too chicken to post up is commenting about thin skin. And hate away... trolling is what RRC is all about.
16
Anonymous said on March 6th, 2015
hard to imagine anything that no one cares about more than this route
17
climb2core said on March 6th, 2015
And yet you find enough interest post about it. God the anon's suck on this forum. Nothing to do, but be dicks to people taking time to make the Red a better place for all.
18
Anonymous said on March 6th, 2015
ANONYMOUS RULES!!
19
pigsteak said on March 6th, 2015
I can attest that Ian is a gumby bolter, although this isnt his first rodeo. He paid some dues this summer, so kudos for that!
20
ray said on April 16th, 2015
Hey Ian, I got on your route today and thought it was pretty cool but the rock quality was so-so. If it had the rock quality of Singularity it would be 5 stars. It's really cool to climb something so steep with such huge holds for sure. The beginning was a wet slab and the ending was so sketch I just lowered from the last bolt.
21
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2015
Sketch ending? Do you mean the roof or over the roof? I hardly had anything break on me. Interesting. Glad u checked it.
22
Anonymous said on April 22nd, 2015
Moves guarding the chains are only hard on red point due to pump factor.
23
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2015
only time I think I ever wish we could vote zero stars on a route.....I want my life back after this one....
24
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2015
This route was ridiculously good. I came twice and saw Jesus before I clipped the chains.
25
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2015
Whenever I'm at fruit wall and have to poop I walk over to the portal. I look at this line and become so physically sick that I spray peanut and corn laced shit all over the slab start of this climb.
26
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2015
No wonder it's so dirty and green
27
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2015
Long hike from the 5.8s. I'm sure you must shit your pants just a little on the way.
28
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2015
I climbed through that layer of fecal material, and was so nauseated by the smell, as well as the fragile choss that I climbed through, that from the chains I sprayed projectile liquid shit all over the top half of this route. I used the chains to wipe. This route is now 3/4 shit, and 1/4 choss.
29
Anonymous said on May 25th, 2015
Rock was raining off this today.
30
Anonymous said on May 25th, 2015
The block just past the last bolt at the end of the roof has moss growing between it and the ceiling above. I could feel it vibrate. Scary 1,000lb death block. Also had some footholds and handholds crumble and break at the beginning and end. Other than that, quite fun!
31
climb2core said on June 1st, 2015
I rapped in to check out the 1000 lbs death block. The large ledge after the roof wouldn't move with crowbar or hammer. After that was one small sandy ledge and I did knock most of it off. it will make exiting the roof a bit harder but I don' t think it will change the grade.
32
Anonymous said on June 2nd, 2015
This route needs a DNR order
33
mikeet said on November 12th, 2015
So has this really not seen a FA? I see all sorts of strong dudes climbing on it in the pictures...
34
climb2core said on November 12th, 2015
Nah, I sent it back in March. I guess Ray just didn't update it. I don't know of any second ascent yet. Someone did put project draws on it though.
35
Anonymous said on July 1st, 2016
Lil Reggie told me this was a total turd.
36
Anonymous said on July 1st, 2016
Hey, wait a minute! I'm the only lil reggie recycler on this site! He told me it was similar to one of lil reggie's floaters
37
Anonymous said on July 2nd, 2016
Lil Reggie is that dude.
38
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2017
I thought this climb was awesome. Got on it to today LOVED it for sure! Just want to let everybody know that the 3rd perma-draw ripped out today. It came out super easily. i didnt fall on it, my wife saw it just slide out as i was moving through the final roof. So unless it gets fixed it could be a close ground fall between the 2nd and now 3rd perma. Other than that i loved this route and would climb it again even with the missing draw.
39
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2017
lol... yikes
40
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2017
nice job super safe ian.... lol
41
climb2core said on April 27th, 2017
People need to tighten down bolts that loosen. Same thing happened on Swamp Gator and Lights Out. Anon, if you have the bolt and pd I'd appreciate it. Please send me a pm. I'll be down 1st weekend in May and can get to it then. I'll most likely convert to a glue-in. Thanks for the heads up and glad you liked the route.
42
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2017
Bolts don't just "loosen up and fall out of the wall". That's on the bolter.
43
jnolte said on April 27th, 2017
Anonymous after a route is bolted sent and made open to the comunity its up to us as climbers to maintain and inspect bolts and hardware.
44
climb2core said on April 27th, 2017
" The Hilti HSL and the Rawl Bolt may loosen slightly over time. When this happens, simply retighten them." http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/mechbolts.htm "Crux bolt in the roof was on the verge of failure today. Needs immediate retightening with a 9/16" wrench" http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/?type=route&id=3138 " the very last bolt...as we worked it, the hanger started spinning from all the angular falls it was taking" http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/?type=route&id=3388 "Bolt in question was fine, it just needed to be re-tightened back when it started spinning and losing rock behind the hanger. A little minor route maintenance with a 9/16" wrench goes a long way" http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/?type=route&id=2009 Anon is obviously not educated and has never placed a bolt in his/her life. Carry a 9/16th wrench and be aware of what you are clipping.
45
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2017
im not trying to complain about the the bolt coming out of the rock. Just a heads up for anybody who cares...... i understand that stuff can happen. I have no experience with gear repair or bolting of any sort, so i wouldnt risk trying to fix something i dont know how to fix. someday i would love to learn. In my opinion you dont even need that bolt in there. if you have a good belayer you wont hit the ground.... (very hard) lol... Thanks for the websites for more info. I will cowboy up and figure out how to fix what needs fixin.....
46
climb2core said on April 27th, 2017
Hey anon that just responded... My comments were not directed at you. I appreciate you letting us know what happened. Thank you! Just a heads up that bolts can loosen,especially on new routes. Try to be aware of what you are clipping and keep a 9/16" wrench to tighten them down. If you have the bolt and permadraw, let me know how I can get it.
47
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2017
climb2core tried to send you a PM but wouldnt work. My last day in lexington is on May 1st. I could leave at LEF climbing gym
48
climb2core said on April 27th, 2017
Perfect, you can leave at LEF for Kipp Trummel and I will get it. Alternatively, you can drop it off at the Rockhouse or Miguels for Ian Kirk if you are still in the Gorge. Whatever is easiest... just let me know. Thx
49
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2017
"Bolts don't just "loosen up and fall out of the wall". That's on the bolter." Actually they have numerous times, even when tightened to manufacturer spec with a torque wrench. It seems people are too lazy to carry a small wrench to the crag. Going to start to have to switch to glue-ins only to baby proof for the masses.
50
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2017
I will leave it at LEF
51
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2017
Can anyone name another instance where a new bolt loosened and fell out of the wall from just rope drag? I can only thing of one..
52
climb2core said on April 27th, 2017
Ebola, Kaliedoscope, Lights Out, Swamp Gator. Without trying to think back too much.
53
Anonymous said on April 27th, 2017
lol that is simply not true, none of those bolts fell out while a climber was on the route simply from rope drag...
54
climb2core said on April 27th, 2017
You have no idea. Just because you didn't read it on RRC doesn't mean it didn't happen. I know these for facts. Send me a message and I will happy be talk to you about it.
55
Anonymous said on April 28th, 2017
The bolt on Kaleidoscope did come out from rope drag. The climber fell on the bolt in question (crux bolt) multiple times, then climbed past it, clipped the next one, and while he was climbing towards the anchors, the bolt in questions wiggled out.
56
Anonymous said on April 28th, 2017
Hey Anon take steps to be part of the solution, stop bitching, learn boulder, or stay out of the Red. But deffinantly stop slamming people that know what there doing and give up there time putting up routes and rebolting!
57
Cromper said on April 28th, 2017
Keep this going. I need more entertainment at work.
58
dustonian said on April 28th, 2017
Yeah that shit sounds super boring
59
climb2core said on April 28th, 2017
Most commented on route that no one has ever climbed, lol
60
Anonymous said on April 29th, 2017
at least you have one thing in life going for you ian
61
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2017
When did a bolt fall out from Ebola simply from the rope pulling on it? Ians alternative facts....
62
climb2core said on May 1st, 2017
Tell this guy he is lying then. https://www.facebook.com/RRGFixedGearInitiative/photos/a.106221229544220.15555.105779769588366/801955823304087/?type=3&theater
63
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2017
Ohhhh a random picture of some guy I don't know with some personal anecdotal evidence! Keep trying super safe.... At some point you will make a coherent point :)
64
climb2core said on May 1st, 2017
LOL, ok anon. You win. Just keep a wrench with you to tighten down bolts that aren't loosening.
65
climb2core said on May 20th, 2017
Put a glue in at the 3rd. It should be good to go.
66
DeadHead said on September 25th, 2017
This chose pile actually has some fun climbing. I spent a good amount of time cleaning a lot of sand and cob webs from it yesterday. A few more pieces of loose rock are also on the ground now. Give your better and all bystanders a helmet before you get on this.