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Plenty of Sun

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

 Route 52

6.
+0
0 votes

Horny Bitch 5.8- (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori in 1977
Length: 140ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route climbs the obvious dihedral about 50 feet left of the large buttress. Begin by bouldering up to a ledge where the route starts. Climb through interesting moves followed by good stances. You will reach a large ledge about 30 feet from the top with a wide crack on both sides. Climb the left side of the wide crack to a small ledge then continue to the top. Belay from a tree.
To descend from the top of the cliff, walk right and rap from a tree to a ledge about 10 feet down to access the anchors on Party Time.
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.41 stars (29 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (17 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

18 comments {add your own comments}
1
Anonymous said on January 25th, 2003
Great long moderate route. Definitely an epic for timid 5.8 leaders.
2
ynot said on September 2nd, 2003
The start is the only thing that keeps this route from being a classic,the moves are stellar and the exposure is good.
3
ace_trice said on November 12th, 2004
To safely top out on this bad boy, if that's even possible, bring along a Camalot #5 or a Big Bro, and a Camalot #4 to protect the final 40 feet. Even the #5 might not do it. I ran it out over a shitty cam for maybe 25ft, but the climbing was easy 5.5 or so. My only pro option between that 2nd rap station and the top was a Camalot #4. Super fun, though.
4
Anonymous said on February 15th, 2005
hy
5
Anonymous said on March 6th, 2005
cuz ya fucked up and aaaaashy
6
Anonymous said on March 17th, 2005
should be named THORNY bitch. Damn bushes
7
MartyV said on July 2nd, 2006
There ought to be a 0 star voting option. You have to climb through 30 feet of dirt, moss, rododendro, raspberry bushes to pull a few interesting moves on the upper part.
8
Ascentionist said on July 3rd, 2006
But the rest is so freakin' cool!
9
Anonymous said on October 31st, 2006
A few great moves, with a rattling 'approach' My glasses fell off as i started the rap and landed 140' below after bouncing off every ledge-- not a scratch. amazing. three stars is fair, 5.8? barely. If you can make it to the bottom in the wets you should have no probem climbing it.
10
corduroy said on March 22nd, 2009
dbl ropes not required. fresh slings at the top and watch for the hanging pine when rappeling. knot the ends of your rope. very enjoyable route.
11
TIT said on March 22nd, 2009
just like describtion says, MUCH better than it looks from the ground.... one of the better climbs at fortress!, also pretty long trad line for the red!
12
StefPrez said on June 6th, 2010
Have to piggy back on the "not for timid 5.8 leaders." The second pitch of this was my 3rd trad lead ever, and damn was I sketched. Also had no idea what offwidth or wide crack was until about halfway up the 2nd pitch. Had to pull the roof with no pro and a terribly shaky arm bar. Thank God for the fixed cam way in the back, otherwise I would have taken a whipper. Nothing else would fit that I had on me! Had to bail on the "second rap station" since I didn't have any pro nearly large enough to protect it. I don't recommend belaying off the rap tree as I did. Experienced a nasty pendulum into the pine tree when my second fell near the top. Overall, "classic" in the terms of some, for me, one hell of a memory. The date next to the FA's name is just as important as the grade itself.
13
kman154 said on March 21st, 2011
I thought this was a great route. It would go on my top 10 trad routes list I have done to date. There was no undergrowth at all so the approach was very easy and clear. I belayed the second from a ledge about 15 feet below the rap tree at the top and it was great. The BD #6 was a blessing in the wide crack at the crux.
14
rjackson said on August 13th, 2012
This may be the best kept secret at Fortress! Fun and long climb with great gear, exposure and movement. But, I would NOT recommend for the new climber or the timid... ALSO A full 70m raps to the ground, barely...
15
therealface2 said on November 25th, 2013
I recently got on this thinking it was Bedtime for Bonzo (first time at Fortress and I really wasn't paying any attention.....after actually finding Bonzo I realized how far off I really was). It's an alright route. The only real memorable part was figuring out how to gain the muddy ledge just to get the start. 2 stars. I wouldn't go out of my way to get on this one again.
16
Ascentionist said on February 14th, 2014
Did this with Chris...hmmm, can't remember his name...but I remember the look on his face when he was getting ready to pull out the last cam below the belay ledge and I told him--as he was about to do the crux layback--that he couldn't fall because my belay was crap. Like someone else said, best kept secret at Fortress.
17
Ascentionist said on January 5th, 2016
What is the left facing dihedral left of this route and before Route 52? Looks like fingers or thin hands in an arching thinning dihedral. From the trail I could see tat at the end of the crack and a lot of face above? I have a photo.
18
MikeWilkinson said on July 13th, 2019
140ft of climbing in a single pitch? Hell yes. Takes great gear except towards the end, a single 5 kept me safe and a 3 perfectly slotted right near the finish. Found the mini-cruxes at each bulge to be challenging for 5.8 but I suck at bouldering. Too bad there isn't chains at the finish but there are trees a plenty for a top belay. Found a quick link on some decent looking cord out left on a ledge, made it down with one rap on a single 70.