Possum Lips

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Military Wall

Tissue Tiger


9.
+0
0 votes

Fuzzy Undercling 5.11b (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Phil Olenick in 1990
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
This is the first route on the obvious overhanging pocketed face. It begins directly to the left of an arete. Boulder the start then pull on plates and jugs to the top.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
bouldery (1)
Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

4.46 stars (191 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (134 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: ferris
Date: Jun 26th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 23rd, 2010

Comments

1
Anonymous said on March 23rd, 2004
This is just another climb that the Fat Ass Troll Wes cannot get his ass up. Ha ha ha MT1
2
peterbonamici said on June 17th, 2004
really fun route with a NO HANDS rest
3
Zspider said on September 12th, 2004
Finally got it! After the crux at the bottom, haul to the top on some of the biggest jugs in the gorge. An aesthetic line. A true Red River Gorge classic.
4
Anonymous said on October 11th, 2004
Wow! Great route with a difficult start and a piece of pie for a finish. Check out the No hands rest!!!
5
ender_xx said on October 12th, 2004
so fun, even if you can't get the start you should batman past it and climb the rest of the route. Its worth it
6
Anonymous said on October 13th, 2004
True that ender xx, once the route passes the first two bolts it is honestly a low 10. Go for it!
7
dah-le said on June 2nd, 2005
the low crux is definitely height dependant...the taller you are, the easier it is (as long as you're using a decent sequence.)
8
eroktix said on September 17th, 2005
classic. reachy start?
9
dancingkornelius said on October 12th, 2005
very cool route
10
Anonymous said on April 23rd, 2006
I'd have to second the dah-le's comment that the low crux is easier if you're on the tall side. I'm over 6', and I floated through the lower crux because of it. I heard that a hold or two on Fuzzy broke off several years ago, making the grade a little more solid. Haven't been on it since to confirm that though. Thanks to Porter for bolting Fuzzy all those years ago. It was such a fun little route.
11
Anonymous said on April 23rd, 2006
I'd have to second the dah-le's comment that the low crux is easier if you're on the tall side. I'm over 6', and I floated through the lower crux because of it. I heard that a hold or two on Fuzzy broke off several years ago, making the grade a little more solid. Haven't been on it since to confirm that though. Thanks to Porter for bolting Fuzzy all those years ago. It was such a fun little route.
12
Dhaulagiri said on May 30th, 2006
a lot more fun in the dark
13
K-Dawg said on June 29th, 2006
last day, last climb...damn, that was fun
14
chouca said on November 5th, 2006
this is so much fun. I like it more than the 12s to the left. I´d give it 5 stars any time!
15
Anonymous said on March 23rd, 2007
i love this route, i just neet to lead it!
16
Wes said on June 22nd, 2007
Since the stump went away, the start is quite a bit harder (without stacking stones), esp. if you are under 5'7"ish. Otherwise, a good route, but not all that great, certainly not one of the best of the grade.
17
rhunt said on June 22nd, 2007
Its not the best one of its grade anymore but back in the day....
18
Wes said on June 22nd, 2007
Maybe, but there are still a few routes at the wall that are better, to me. Oh, and it wasn't a stump, but a big rock that fell over, making the start more challenging.
19
512OW said on June 24th, 2007
My partner is 5'1", and the start wasn't a big deal for her... just one extra V0 move... with no cheater stones.
20
kisor740 said on October 6th, 2008
Great route one of my first at the Red a must do fun from start to finish
21
Dman said on January 13th, 2009
great route pretty reachy 4 me im 5 11
22
crayon said on June 12th, 2009
In 90% humidity and thunderstorm conditions, this thing feels as greasy as a pig on the bottom crux. Took a screamer after sliming out of one of the giant underclings. Not so pleased.
23
Anonymous said on March 10th, 2010
Honestly my favorite climb at the Red thus far!
24
CCR said on July 5th, 2010
i'm 5' you have no excuses
25
CRZYFST said on August 2nd, 2010
I submitted a picture and reported this, but the big far right lock ring is badly worn. Actually the whole anchor area seems like a rats nest to me and should be cleaned up. There are two chains and 5 Lock rings on the lower portion of this anchor system. I love this route and it is very popular, please can someone clean up the anchors and make it safer? Thanks
26
landr1cj said on April 25th, 2011
The anchors seem to be the same mess still.
27
Spikeddem said on September 21st, 2011
This route is a two-star route on a five-star scale, in my opinion. I had looked forward to doing Fuzzy Underwhelming for a while, but it's probably in the bottom 10% of routes I've done here at the Red. To be fair, it had pretty high expectations...Had it been a two-star route in the guidebook, I bet I would have been presently surprised.
28
Anonymous said on September 21st, 2011
<---- lol. noob.
29
Spikeddem said on September 21st, 2011
Shit. You got me.
30
Anonymous said on September 21st, 2011
Spikeddem you are going to hate the red...I would recommend climbing a muddy hill if your looking for some five star classics.
31
Spikeddem said on September 21st, 2011
Thanks for the beta. I'll keep my eyes peeled.
32
pigsteak said on September 25th, 2011
agreed...has always been a very average route..
33
Artsay said on September 25th, 2011
FWIW.....Fuzzy was established in 1990 so there wasn't much to compare it to back then. The only route similar in age, grade, and rating is King Me, another RRG classic, and one that may also be out-rated by newer lines. But they're are both still "5 star classics" at the Red.
34
pigsteak said on September 25th, 2011
now king me, there is a 5 star classic....
35
dustonian said on September 25th, 2011
tru dat... no comparison between king me and FU in terms of quality really.
36
climb2core said on September 26th, 2011
FU is a classic climb on its own right. It was one of the first climbs I did when I came to the Red. It is a great introduction to the steep sandstone gym-like climbing with huge the jug hauling iron oxides after the bouldery start. As new lines have been found like Amarillo Sunset, the variety of the climbing features have made the the new classics of the day, but FU is still a classic in its own right.
37
tbwilsonky said on September 26th, 2011
i enjoy this route when i climb upon its holds.
38
Anonymous said on September 26th, 2011
yeah. spikeddem-a little historical perspective might help. think of FU as the cornerstone route on one of the earliest established crags where people could break from easy 9's to the classic style red at a relatively accessible 11b.
39
nik said on May 7th, 2012
tough little boulder problem down low to monster jugs! don't know why people are so bummed on this route -- i, too, had fun when i climbed upon its holds!
40
ryanthayer said on October 4th, 2012
Does the number of attempts mean all at one time? I sent this route but I didnt send it until the 4th time I tried it... or does that mean I took 4 falls and made it to the top? sorry for the confusion.
41
dustonian said on October 4th, 2012
Ask pigsteak...
42
Willy said on October 8th, 2012
Over hyped and way over polished. I suppose it is a classic historically but I wouldn't ever bother waiting in line for it. Was probably a lot more enjoyable when the holds still felt like they were made of sandstone and the base wasn't so eroded
43
stix said on October 8th, 2012
the base of fuzzy hasn't eroded that much (although erosion is an obvious issue at this wall). there used to be a rock that stood upright that you stood on to start the route and the reach better holds. if this amount of polish is an issue i would suggest never leaving the red.
44
pigsteak said on October 9th, 2012
I was thinking there used to be a fallen tree to stand on...was that even earlier?
45
stix said on October 9th, 2012
i'm pretty much positive that fuzzy had a little boulder that stood upright and eventually fell over. i think at one time it was the base of the cheater stack. maybe still is? now too many puppies had a little tree stump that you stood on to get off the ground. that's been gone for some time now, making the start of that one much harder too.
46
allah said on October 10th, 2012
There was a small boulder and a tree stump at the base once back in the day. As all wood does when it is dead Eroded away and when that happened the boulder fell away from the clif a bit and may have been moved completely away from that cliff, not sure at out that though since it has been a long time since I was there.
47
Bloody Knees said on October 25th, 2012
I'm 5'3"... I didn't use the cheater stones... every move was doable with minimal effort.
48
tbwilsonky said on October 25th, 2012
minimal effort. subjectively consistent.
49
Anonymous said on October 25th, 2012
Lots of effort. Consistently subjective.
50
tpowell said on August 21st, 2013
The chains need some loving. There are two sets of quicklinks to rap from, big and small. The big quicklinks have been worn down to the half way point from lowering. The little quicklinks are attached to bigger quicklinks, which are attached to the anchors, and these big quicklinks are rusted to hell. One of them looks to have some fractures in it. I didn't have any quicklinks on me to replace them.
51
goodtimes said on September 16th, 2013
new quicklinks September '13. The rest of the anchor system does not look great either, but at least people won't still be lowering on those horrible quick links.
52
dustonian said on September 16th, 2013
nice work Jeremy!
53
Willy said on February 14th, 2014
I take back my previous comment on this route. Has some cool moves, a cool no-hands, a fun bouldery start and some downright massive holds that face all directions! Will be getting a new anchor sometime next week.
54
milspecmark said on May 24th, 2017
So appropriate that on my first redpoint I was shaking out at the no hands rest and a little fuzzy bat was hanging from an undercling right in front of my face. Made for quite a memorable climb. This was my first 11b, great climb.