COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Horny Bitch

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

Cussin' Crack


7.
+0
0 votes

Route 52 5.9 (Trad)

First Ascent: Bob Molzon in 1977
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

Click for more images
This route ascends a right facing crack around the corner about 60 feet left of Horny Bitch.
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

4 stars (3 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9- (2 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 4th, 2016

Comments

1
wilkes86 said on January 25th, 2021
Climbed this route the other day and it is actually really good! I would say it needs a 5 and 6 camalot to protect the route as it gets pretty offwidth about 30 ft up. Also i'm guessing the original route only went to the ledge and traversed off left to maybe the top of cussin crack? as the original description is only 60 ft long. You can climb this route and easily jump into another crack system that turns into an awesome dihedral and top out the main fortress wall. it's about 5.9 the whole way, 140 ft and 2 pitches. As far as I can tell it had not been climbed before but not really sure. It was pretty stellar and clean climbing, I would say like a harder party time that tops out the wall.
2
wilkes86 said on January 25th, 2021
Not sure how to add a route or variation do you just email ray?
3
Anonymous said on January 26th, 2021
Probably climbed before if there is a straightforward transition to a "stellar and clean" upper crack...but you never know. Email Ray and best of luck with the FA
4
BubbyBoi said on May 3rd, 2021
Didn't expect this rig to be such a battle, but damn what a fun battle it was! I imagine this was once a fairly popular offwidth test for the hard men of old, but it's since become mostly forgotten. If there's anything the modern climber hates more than slab, it's gotta be offwidth. Be smart and keep your large gear and runners on your right side. Bumping up your single 6 a couple times works well until you're able to place your 5. The bottom is unfortunately a little sandy and eroded, but the offwidthing itself is clean and solid. New chain anchors on the ledge up top. Combine this beast with Dan's "Plenty of Sun" second pitch for the full value top out experience.