COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Sex Farm

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Left Flank

Aquaduck Pocket

0 votes

Gumby Unicorn 5.1 (Trad) *

First Ascent: Will Sweeney, Jimmy Hoctor in 2014
Length: 30ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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The awe inspiring left angling crack beginning beneath Aqueduct Pocket. This long standing project deemed too treacherous and mind blowing by many has finally been put to rest. The use of delicate smears, insecure jams and fairy dust is required to reach the summit of this futuristic King Line. Others claimed to have climbed the route prior to Hoctor and Sweeney's ascent but were obviously lying.
Moves: Magical
Descent: Rappel from tree or float down
Stays Dry: Ever and always
Owner: NFS
classic (2) scary (2) beautiful (2) runout (1) adventerous (1) technical (1) exposed (1) confusing (1) pumpy (1)
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Route Spray
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Quality Consensus

4.46 stars (24 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.14d (25 votes)

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Submitted by: Steve Tuttle
Date: May 29th, 2017

Submitted by: Willy
Date: Apr 19th, 2017

Submitted by: djaverill
Date: Apr 20th, 2015

Submitted by: climb2core
Date: Apr 2nd, 2015


XplosionOflaver said on April 1st, 2015
watch out! There are care bears hiding in them cracks!
brayackmedia said on April 2nd, 2015
5.3 all day long. Don't be such a sandbagger....
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2015
Yes! A revolutionary line that has stood the test of time and humbled many a suitor. Inspiring to say the least. Kudos to the conquerors! Jimbo-slice you have accomplished the feat of a lifetime.
climb2core said on April 2nd, 2015
No way did Dr. Rockso flash this. I call BS. Name your belayer
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2015
There is no way to get down! I am texting this now, trapped on the summit. If you are reading this, I need to be rescued... and bring some chocolate milk.
whoneedsfeet said on April 2nd, 2015
I'm pretty sure I left a pbr and half a doober up by the tree Anon. Hopefully somebody will sack up and save you soon.
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2015
Solo Yolo. -Dr Rockso
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2015
i'd pay per view to watch the link up to sex farm.
Willy said on April 2nd, 2015
Rumor has it Scotty Curran has been drinking for weeks to train and gather materials to lead this using crushed PBR tall boys as pro. Next level bra
djaverill said on April 21st, 2015
Tried to put this Kentucky hard man line down last summer. It proved to be far too heady and technical. I've sent many 5.2 climbs (even some onsight) but this 5.1 was just too hard. Congrats on the FA!
Anonymous said on May 20th, 2016
I'm headed to the red this weekend from Cleveland, OH. Looking for a good first trad lead. Looks like it may rain a bit. Does this route stay dry in the rain? Also, if it is a bit wet, will it still be climbable? Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Anonymous said on May 20th, 2016
Should be dry, this thing overhangs like 30 ft.
Chiyram said on May 20th, 2016
Ray, grade consensus is 14c. I think it's time to update the official grade.
vertical1 said on October 7th, 2016
Beautiful line! Worth the wait on a busy day to get on this thing!
Anonymous said on October 7th, 2016
I heard Sasha Di Grey is going for the FFA for Team Red Ball this fall!
whoneedsfeet said on October 11th, 2016
I saw sachsa magillacutty working out the moves on top rope the other seems like she's still a mile away.
Anonymous said on October 11th, 2016
not surprised, no way a girl could climb this
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2017
Added a rappel ring at the bomber anchor tree, as the walk off probably deterred many climbers. Hopefully this will help increase route exposure. Next on the list is cleaning it out, it's super dicey at points because of filled in dirt
Steve Tuttle said on May 30th, 2017
Hannah FFA 5-29-2017 Arie FDA 5-29-2017 (unless first female dog counts as FFA?)
dustonian said on May 30th, 2017
Looks like the dog was first, no credit for Hannah sorry
KylePurp said on October 27th, 2018
B’s out here saying this the easiest in the gorge. But I fell on this. And I soloed phantasia. Shout out goodwill. I do it for the kids.
Anonymous said on October 27th, 2018
You probably weren't wearing enough sweatbands to send.
whoneedsfeet said on November 1st, 2018
Free soloed 11/1/18 downclimbed and repeated a second time since it was so good. Didn’t feel the need to hang a rope off the top and lower. Whoever left a half a joint at the summit thanks it really helped my nerves for the stenious downclimb.
cpliley said on November 4th, 2018
Absolutely impeccable climbing! Finest 14d the red has to offer!
fpmadden said on November 17th, 2018
This route is a piece of shit. Jimmy Hoctor should have his hands cut off for doing this. It's not okay, it's not funny. You are what's wrong with rock climbing. You and all you punk ass friends. You one armed bastard. Psych best route ever. Soloed the route without aiding the topout like that punk bitch Freesoloist aka [email protected][email protected][email protected] King of the solo muthafucka!
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2018
Man I love you Frank you crazy bastard