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Cussin' Crack

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

The Battlement


9.
+0
0 votes

Bombs Bursting 5.8 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider in 1982
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Look for a dihedral around the corner and left of Cussin Crack. Jam the crack to a short roof, move right or left at the roof and take the dihedral to a ledge. Climb crumbly face for a few feet to the main ledge.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.28 stars (65 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (44 votes)

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Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 4th, 2016

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006

Comments

1
Artsay said on September 26th, 2004
It's good to have a number three camalot for the runout section before the roof.
2
Dman said on May 3rd, 2009
nice hand jams all the way to the roof then a fun move out right
3
kman154 said on May 11th, 2009
Great route. So does the route really go right or left at the roof? I went right and it was still a great route.
4
possum2082 said on May 11th, 2009
kman, i saw you aid your way to the top. pulling on cams and stepping on hexes. don't claim you climbed this. btw, thanks for the catch.
5
possum2082 said on May 12th, 2009
kman, i saw you lead your way to the top. plugging cams and slotting hexes. you can definitely claim you climbed this because you definitely climbed this. btw, thanks for the catch. *edited b/c of veiled threat.
6
possum2082 said on May 12th, 2009
1st comment-sarcastic. 2nd comment after *-sarcastic. -captain obvious
7
Anonymous said on September 20th, 2009
funny, the description says "move right at the roof" and the guy on the picture is leading on the left. I did it the same way btw.
8
Ascentionist said on October 1st, 2009
I think the left variation is better. And I for clarification, I take it left at the roof, and then step dead center over the roof onto some buckets. The guy in the photo is Terry Kindred.
9
tania said on November 25th, 2012
Found a little bat chillin in a horizontal face hold on the left side of the crack a few feet under the roof. A great spot to place a piece, but make sure to double check that you won't squish the little guy!! Don't know how long he'll be there...
10
pigsteak said on November 25th, 2012
"place a piece"?????? what are you doing climbing on gear?
11
rjackson said on August 18th, 2013
The only detraction from this route is the nasty mud-rock up top and the tallus filled ledge with the anchors. Better anchor placement (though I'm always grateful for chain anchors!) would probably bump this route by .5-1 star... I'll put it on my list. Oh... And I went left at the roof.
12
taurusclimber said on November 2nd, 2015
Glad I did it, but I wouldn't do it again.
13
taurusclimber said on June 20th, 2016
I revise my comment. I did it again, and had a good time. Different head, better with gear...made a difference.