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Cussin' Crack

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

The Battlement

0 votes

Bombs Bursting 5.8 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: John Bronaugh, Ron Snider in 1982
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Look for a dihedral around the corner and left of Cussin Crack. Jam the crack to a short roof, move right or left at the roof and take the dihedral to a ledge. Climb crumbly face for a few feet to the main ledge.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

3.29 stars (66 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (45 votes)

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Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 4th, 2016

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006


Artsay said on September 26th, 2004
It's good to have a number three camalot for the runout section before the roof.
Dman said on May 3rd, 2009
nice hand jams all the way to the roof then a fun move out right
kman154 said on May 11th, 2009
Great route. So does the route really go right or left at the roof? I went right and it was still a great route.
possum2082 said on May 11th, 2009
kman, i saw you aid your way to the top. pulling on cams and stepping on hexes. don't claim you climbed this. btw, thanks for the catch.
possum2082 said on May 12th, 2009
kman, i saw you lead your way to the top. plugging cams and slotting hexes. you can definitely claim you climbed this because you definitely climbed this. btw, thanks for the catch. *edited b/c of veiled threat.
possum2082 said on May 12th, 2009
1st comment-sarcastic. 2nd comment after *-sarcastic. -captain obvious
Anonymous said on September 20th, 2009
funny, the description says "move right at the roof" and the guy on the picture is leading on the left. I did it the same way btw.
Ascentionist said on October 1st, 2009
I think the left variation is better. And I for clarification, I take it left at the roof, and then step dead center over the roof onto some buckets. The guy in the photo is Terry Kindred.
tania said on November 25th, 2012
Found a little bat chillin in a horizontal face hold on the left side of the crack a few feet under the roof. A great spot to place a piece, but make sure to double check that you won't squish the little guy!! Don't know how long he'll be there...
pigsteak said on November 25th, 2012
"place a piece"?????? what are you doing climbing on gear?
rjackson said on August 18th, 2013
The only detraction from this route is the nasty mud-rock up top and the tallus filled ledge with the anchors. Better anchor placement (though I'm always grateful for chain anchors!) would probably bump this route by .5-1 star... I'll put it on my list. Oh... And I went left at the roof.
taurusclimber said on November 2nd, 2015
Glad I did it, but I wouldn't do it again.
taurusclimber said on June 20th, 2016
I revise my comment. I did it again, and had a good time. Different head, better with gear...made a difference.