The Battlement

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

Pigs In Space


11.
+0
0 votes

Route 48 5.5 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Bob Molzon, Ray Rishel in 1977
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route climbs the right facing dihedral 30 feet left of Bombs Bursting.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.72 stars (47 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.5 (37 votes)

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Comments

1
skeeterth0mps0n said on October 14th, 2004
A bit of grunge. Watch your pacements, Ive seen some rock blow out.
2
climbngurl said on April 16th, 2005
Sent this last weekend - the crux is the opening move, after that it is a nice beginner route to practice gear placements.
3
makisupa said on April 18th, 2005
bottom is awkward but the rest has good stances for placing gear.
4
Stewy911 said on August 10th, 2005
Bottom was like a squeeze chimney for me. I believe I was facing the wrong way. Deserves atleast two stars, Alil dirty but good stances and good gear
5
scarecrow said on January 23rd, 2006
amen to that first statement.
6
Captain Bad Beta said on August 24th, 2006
I don't trad climb at all but enjoyed cleaning this route. I found the start to be a touch awkward but I did enjoy it!
7
belay slave said on October 3rd, 2006
One of my first trad leads...climbngurl hit it on the head - first move is the crux
8
p0bray01 said on November 26th, 2007
awkward in some places...but OK I guess...the moves werent that fun.
9
wannabecrackclimber23 said on December 3rd, 2007
Towards the top in the crack was wet. Watch were you place gear. And you just have to squeeze your ass in the first part and reach up for the crack. worked well for me.
10
Anonymous said on October 20th, 2011
Was my first trad lead! Like everyone else said its pretty awkward. Kinda fun though.
11
Anonymous said on October 21st, 2011
if you climbed this you should know that there's absolutely no excuse for such poor judgement.
12
monty4355 said on June 25th, 2012
Thought this was better than American Crack. Better movement and an easy stem and the bottom is not awkward at all.
13
kwagner059 said on August 24th, 2012
Bolt on the top right anchor is loose. I could only finger tighten it.
14
BostonHammock said on July 12th, 2016
Not sure about the "stays dry in a downpour" part. Went to Fortress the other weekend, between the rains, and it was soaked. Climbed Calypso II instead, before the 2nd downpour hit.