Quicky

This route is located in the Southern Region at Chica Bonita Wall

Mary Pop-Parazzi


3a.
+0
0 votes

Fresh off the Bone 5.11d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Troy M. Davison in 2014
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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As you walk into the rock house area glance up to the left to find a diamond in the coal. Gear yourself up mentally for a roller coaster of emotions as you tackle a roof, moving up and left to somewhat of a rest and clip. Gather yourself and press up on stellar holds and a great ride.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
bouldery (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.5 stars (8 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (7 votes)

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Submitted by: noahbay
Date: Oct 30th, 2018

Submitted by: veela-valoom
Date: Sep 8th, 2015

Comments

1
Anonymous said on August 24th, 2015
Note that if you clip the bolt after the perma, and move up a bit and then fall, you will swing back and forth. And as you swing, a sharp horn will take several slices into your rope.
2
Anonymous said on August 25th, 2015
that is the roller coaster part of the route, don't see anything about swinging, guessing you didn't even gather yourself up and enjoy the stellar ride
3
climb2core said on August 25th, 2015
The roller coaster part is where you get your rope shredded? Maybe an intermediate bolt or some more "cleaning" might help?
4
whoneedsfeet said on August 25th, 2015
Did I read something about cleaning?
5
Anonymous said on August 25th, 2015
"stellar part of the ride" LOL
6
Anonymous said on August 25th, 2015
Guess if you can't onsight the crux, you deserve to have your rope immediately cut.
7
Willy said on August 26th, 2015
Whoneedsfeet, you know what time it is?!
8
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2015
bolt fell off this route right below the lip of the ledge
9
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2015
nice work Troy, probably the rocks fault?
10
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2015
no way man, that guy is a master wheelwright
11
climb2core said on October 19th, 2015
Not uncommon for new bolts to loosen. That's why it is important to check the fixed gear you clip. I'd be that this bolt didn't fall out all of the sudden and that it was progressively getting loosened. Also suspect that tightening it down would have fixed the problem. Troy has placed a lot of bolts, and I have fallen on quite a few of them. He knows what he is doing. Perhaps if you had placed a few of your own, you'd get it.
12
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2015
What does "bolt fell off" mean? ...When someone fell, took...as you were walking under it? Kind of disconcerting...Thanks for the heads up.
13
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2015
I was belaying when the bolt fell off. I noticed as I was lowering the climber that there was something extra dangling off the rope which happened to be the 4th bolt/draw. It was very loose when I clipped it the climb before so it was most likely progressively loosened as climb2core said. I didn't trust it at all, but the next bolt was only 3 moves away and I'm kind of a dumbass so I just kept going.
14
Anonymous said on October 20th, 2015
"Fresh off the Cone"
15
climb2core said on October 21st, 2015
Troy got out and fixed the missing bolt yesterday. Also, shouldn't be a rope shredder anymore if you fall. To anon who noticed the loose bolt and ignored it: Next time please take the time to try to fix it, even if you don't care about your safety or your pal's that went after you. It turned a simple quick fix into requiring the time and expense of getting the developer back out there to place another bolt. If you're still around, I'd buy Troy a 6 pack for the trouble.
16
Anonymous said on October 21st, 2015
Please don't get Troy drunk, next thing ya know he'll start grid-bolting at classic crags or the rest area parking lot
17
Anonymous said on October 21st, 2015
c2c, why would a hanger falling off require placing a new bolt?
18
climb2core said on October 21st, 2015
A few things. Anon didn't meet up with Troy to give him the bolt. Also, you'd have to figure out what parts fell out beside the bolt. Is the cone there, the sleeve, etc? Assuming the cone is still there (which you can't actually see, it'd be by feel), then you have to thread another bolt into with the rest of the components that probably fell out. So, you are already going to need another bolt. Then at this point, it makes sense to just replace it because it takes out any uncertainty if the cone or hole is compromised. Personally, I'd probably have tried to place a glue in in the same hole.