COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Pigs In Space

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

American Wall

2 votes

American Crack 5.4 (Trad) **

First Ascent: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori in 1977
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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More than likely, the approach trail will dump you out just to the left of this route. Look for a left-facing dihedral with a bulge at the top that starts on a ledge about 30 feet left of Route 48. Climb the wide crack to gain the ledge then continue up the crack to the top. Watch the loose block at the top.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

2.97 stars (91 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.5 (73 votes)

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Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Jul 19th, 2019

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Dec 15th, 2014

Submitted by: jarrod1236
Date: Dec 2nd, 2014

Submitted by: corduroy
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006


t bone said on January 17th, 2003
soled this route the first time i climbed it.
hopelesslycruel said on August 23rd, 2003
The crack has been wet a few times I've climbed it--it's not always dry.
marathonmedic said on June 10th, 2004
My first trad lead!!
Zspider said on August 3rd, 2004
A classic Gorge climb. I've climbed this route many times, and I never get tired of it. The beginning is surely harder than 5.4 and the end is kind of tricky. Beautiful rock.
docpolecat said on March 24th, 2005
My first trad route.
Ascentionist said on September 26th, 2005
I'm sure tired of it.
B.J. said on June 27th, 2006
First trad lead as well.
Sketch said on July 15th, 2006
Jump rope the horn for a TR on the direct start.
rrgclimber said on September 18th, 2007
fun route for beginners. nice top out.
p0bray01 said on November 26th, 2007
Yeah beginning is def harder than 5.4 but it was a very enjoyable pitch overall.
rjackson said on June 15th, 2008
5.4? Then seriously old school.
45percent said on January 16th, 2009
Brooded at the base for a while before realizing that since this is a crack climb, maybe I should climb the crack...
agentWTF said on August 7th, 2009
I left 2 biners and a sling on top of this route while trying to flee a lightning storm. If you find 'em, they are yours (clearly). Make sure you tell them "Daddy loves you very much."
possum2082 said on December 7th, 2009
there was a snake today in the x marked blocks.
shuffleboardfan said on April 7th, 2011
Led this a few years ago and built some rock arches on the giant ledge 40 feet right of the anchors. I wonder if they're still there. Anyone wander over there ever? I'll try and post pics if I can find them.
jay2718 said on April 11th, 2011
We noticed that the lower of the two rap bolts above this route is somewhat loose.
gritstone said on October 15th, 2013
Awkward start but then the difficulties soon ease. Plenty of loose blocks towards the top so watch out!
tequilamonster said on May 2nd, 2015