The Therapist (Open Project)

This route is located in the Miller Fork at The Infirmary

Last Rites


12.
+0
0 votes

Psych Ward 5.12d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Matt Maples in 2015
Length: 120ft
Bolts: 17 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start 40 feet left of Quarantine with a campus off a diagonal flake. 30 feet of bouldery and sometimes delicate climbing brings you to 30 feet of easy slab. Now your work begins with 60 feet of steep, rugged climbing. Equipped by Mike Wheatley.
Permadraws on all but the bottom 2 bolts.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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3 stars (6 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13- (12 votes)

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Comments

1
Michael_W said on August 10th, 2015
There are steel biners on the chains and perma draws on all but the first 2 bolts. Eventually I will put one on the second bolt.
2
Cocoapuffs1000 said on November 16th, 2015
Is this grade a typo? I got on this not knowing what it was - I don't know what 13+ feels like but I'm pretty sure it's a lot harder than this!
3
ray said on November 17th, 2015
This is the rightmost in the cave. You sure you were on the right route?
4
Anonymous said on November 17th, 2015
Yeah, well 13+ is pretty hard. Hate to break it to ya.
5
Cocoapuffs1000 said on November 18th, 2015
The one I tried was the next route to the right of Last Rites. Obvious long climb with new perma draws. It started near the right side of the cave and ended near the Last Rites anchors. Hard-ish start in the diagonal flake, to left traversing slab and a steep head wall. Is there another route I missed?
6
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2015
route fluffing???? dun dun dunnnnnnnn!
7
ray said on November 19th, 2015
Yep that's the one. Maybe I typod the grade. How hard did it feel?
8
Cocoapuffs1000 said on November 19th, 2015
I only tried it a couple times, but I was guessing 12+...
9
Anonymous said on November 25th, 2015
When I first got on the route Mike told me he thought it was around 14-, I knew it wasn't that hard. I thought it felt right around as hard as Ultra Perm which I did back in the Spring, but if it needs a downgrade, downgrade it. - Matt
10
JR said on November 29th, 2015
Well said Matt.
11
Cocoapuffs1000 said on December 2nd, 2015
I jumped on this again, and I think it is harder than I originally thought. I didn't send it but it felt a little bit harder than the 13a's I've done. I'm not sure it's 3 grades harder though! Not trying to be a jerk or egoist by any means, Matt, sorry if that came off harshly. Anyway more people should do it - it's cleaning up and well worth climbing. Rope drag does add to the difficulty of the head wall. Oh, and bring a 70m rope for this one...
12
dustonian said on March 13th, 2016
Props to Yaters for sending his first 13a/d
13
Rob Smith said on April 3rd, 2016
Got on this today after climbing here all week. Close to onsight and then easily one hung it second try. I would guess 12d. It is easier than Halitosis 13a at this crag, but could be low level 13a maybe. Still fun aside from sharpness. I think it will get easier with time as there are lots of other holds on overhang not chalked up yet. Fun route. Thanks for bolting it Mike.
14
Anonymous said on April 10th, 2016
... and then he logged it in 1 go ;)
15
pigsteak said on April 13th, 2016
...for real...what punk ass climbers still cheat on this stupid shit?
16
Raiden said on November 7th, 2016
If you enjoy sand, lichen, and razor blades, you will enjoy this route.