Close [x]
adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical
COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Thunder Chicken

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

 Blue Runner

17.
+0
0 votes

Calypso I 5.7 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori in 1977
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

Click for more images
Walk left from American Wall to the left side of the rockhouse. Scramble up to a ledge 10 feet up and head towards a flake. Take the flake to the ledge.
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

3.28 stars (67 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (48 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos

{add your own picture}

Submitted by: cpliley
Date: May 8th, 2016

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 4th, 2016

Submitted by: LittleMonkeyMojo
Date: Dec 27th, 2006

Comments

17 comments {add your own comments}
1
tamara said on July 12th, 2005
This route is super! I can't believe the one-star rating.
2
randomboulder said on October 3rd, 2005
Fun route! No bolt anchors at the top. Either build an anchor or clip the ones for Blue Runner. Rap off Blue Runner. Lots of loose stuff on top.
3
MartyV said on May 8th, 2006
Plan to rap off Blue runner. It looks like some have rapped off a questionable small tree, not a good idea. Make sure your belayer stays alert for loose material off top.
4
ewaaser said on July 3rd, 2006
Nice route - would probably get more traffic if it had it's own anchors. The "questionable small tree" is a very dead small tree and definitely a bad idea. About a gazillion bees swarming around the top of this route in early July. Beware of wasp nest in a crack about a foot below the anchors on Blue Runner.
5
LittleMonkeyMojo said on December 28th, 2006
Fun route, deserves more stars
6
thenutz said on August 31st, 2007
In the guide book i have they give this route a 2 star rating i feel it needs to be at least 3. Very nice route wish it was longer the rating 5.7 i feel is correct could be a 5.8 if you start from the ground and go straight up the wall to the ledge beside the tree.
7
Sco Bro said on April 6th, 2008
That poor bitch ass tree is a joke. Seriously, who would make such a suggestion, and mean it. I’m all for fun and games, but not when some innocent boy scouts, when they’re walking across the trail, get hit by some dumb ass that thought the tree wouldn’t lay over and drop their fat trady ass. Don't!
8
Myke Dronez said on July 8th, 2008
It would be great with its own anchors but I don't know where you'd put em, nothing but a load of chossy, bee infested talus up there. Great climb nonetheless , wish it were longer.
9
SketchySam said on May 17th, 2009
Now has rap rings. Hopefully these will save what's left of the small tree up top.
10
possum2082 said on May 18th, 2009
no one should even touch that tree. do you mean someone put some bolt anchors on it? or do you mean someone left rap rings and webbing? if so, where's the webbing attatched to?
11
SketchySam said on May 20th, 2009
It's got bolt anchors with rap rings
12
Rooky said on September 29th, 2013
Man I was huffin and puffin all up this thing on T freaking R. I have a lot more respect for you Tradies!
13
GaryO said on March 7th, 2014
Superb climbing up the flake! The direct start is fun but considerably harder (10ish)
14
said on October 6th, 2020
Direct start felt 10a to me, though i could see this getting a proper 5.9 sandbag. Really fun route, with a super cool micro placement to protect the blind pull around to the main flake, which can be unclipped once youre above it, if extended.
15
Anonymous said on October 6th, 2020
Mdjagg killin it with the gumby trad posts today haha
16
Anonymous said on October 6th, 2020
I'm no jag supporter but he's just living his life and y'all are trailing after him on the internet, gobbling up everything he does. Are you obsessed? Do you have a crush on him? Is he your daddy?
17
Anonymous said on October 6th, 2020
No he's just made himself into a fun target with his own behavior