Gettin' Woolly

This route is located in the Miller Fork at Secret Garden

Sloppy Seconds


12a.
+0
0 votes

Nachos, Lemonheads, My Dad's Boat 5.12b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Scott Curran in 2015
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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A hard boulder problem involving several slopey underclings gains the easy plated face just above the first bolt. Gain a good jug rail just below the fourth then tackle the roof while traversing left and up to another good rest. Hard technical climbing on small crimps and underclings leads to the anchors.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
vertical (1) crimpy (1) technical (1)
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4 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (2 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 17th, 2015

Comments

1
Anonymous said on October 14th, 2015
wow... that route name tho
2
Cromper said on October 14th, 2015
Actually sent this today randomly got out late. Open at 12b. Sorry yasmeen.
3
Anonymous said on October 14th, 2015
best name ever
4
Cromper said on March 6th, 2016
Added another lower first bolt to this today. Next bolt count is 9 plus anchors
5
Brentucky said on April 4th, 2016
If you have the first bolt clipped the rope runs over and around the bulging rock above (beneath the second bolt). Then if you fall anywhere above on the route the rope tightens up against the rock between 1 and 2 making for some pretty hard catches. I recommend stick-clipping the second bolt if you can. Nice route with plenty of action and lots of good rests.