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Calypso I

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

The Wasp

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Blue Runner 5.9- (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Ed Pearsall, Billy Bevins in 1979
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the left-facing dihedral about 20 feet left of Calypso I in front of a large boulder. Climb up to the overhang about 20 feet up and move left and up to gain the dihedral. Bring some large gear for the chimney above the thin section.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

4.02 stars (65 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (48 votes)

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Submitted by: Lil Josh
Date: Aug 25th, 2013


The Pirate said on June 28th, 2004
a classic in my book
Anonymous said on February 1st, 2006
I think wolfman broke his ankle on the boulder at the base.
ewaaser said on July 1st, 2006
July 2006 - big wasp nest in a crack in the rock about a foot below the anchors. Beware! There's also some nasty fall potential on this route, so be solid at the grade before leading it.
Josef said on September 22nd, 2007
Wasp nest has been taken care of... Don't know by who, but thank you.
Myke Dronez said on July 8th, 2008
Fun, varied climbing. The thin crux protects great with small stoppers keeping the good fingers freed up. Lots of low flying bats at dusk, very cool and more effective than a can of OFF.
rjackson said on December 31st, 2008
Sporty bottom, plates and ledges, stemming, a thin crux, a chimney... what more could you ask for? Great gear placements in the crux; I know, I tested it.
jrathfon said on May 17th, 2010
apparently, a party went to the store and grabbed a can of raid and came back to clear out that nest and get their gear back a few years ago, says my buddy. fun climb. i'll ditto the good nuts in the crux, and yes, the ledge is a little close below the crux. the OW/chimney protects well with deep 3's or normal 4's. tough little moves in that crux! fun!
caribe said on June 2nd, 2010
A classic indeed!
monty4355 said on June 25th, 2012
The crux through the thin section sure is spicy but very fun!! The whole ledge above this route that the anchors are on was covered in bees today.Got stung once.
tpowell said on April 23rd, 2014
This is a killer route for people who are so-so on stemming.
Anonymous said on October 27th, 2015
Anchors sit on a slanting boulder about 4 feet above a somewhat sharp-ish lip. If you just put some quickdraws on the anchors, the rope will run over the edge, which I wouldn't recommend for heavy top-roping. I extended my draws by about 4 feet to clear the lip for a drag free, and possibly safer, top-rope.
btownboogie said on July 11th, 2016
Large bee's nest at the top of the route, as well as a hornet's nest within the boulder that carries the anchors. Great route though!
Sloth said on May 18th, 2018
Got a small stopper wedged in the crux section. Fell on it, so I think its welded in 🤔. Was a great route, have fun folks.
said on October 5th, 2020
A smallish nut, and a 00 and 0 UL Master (.1ish) fit the thin seam at the crux. Protect the start with a .3 placed from the boulder. Great climbing, and a very thought provoking crux.
KhaoticKlimber said on October 5th, 2020
The new #0 Z4 protects the crux very well too.
AidClimber said on October 5th, 2020
Kahotic did you think this was accurate for 5.9?
Anonymous said on October 5th, 2020
You can nest 4 or 5 equalized RURPs and duct-taped hook just before the hardest 5.8 move on this fearsome testpiece
KhaoticKlimber said on October 6th, 2020
Yes. As the king of 5.9 trad, I can confirm that this is just enough spice to make me quiver in my gumball shoes.