Cowboys from Hell

This route is located in the Miller Fork at The Record Shop

The Wall (Closed Project)


6a.
+0
0 votes

Jamming in Exodus 5.11a (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Art Cammers, Kenneth Johns in 2015
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Between Cowboys from Hell and The Wall is a flaring crack that zigs to the right twice before ending at chains to the right of the crack. Extend appropriately to avoid rope-drag. Protection is solid, BD#2-small fingers; reserve BD#0.5 and BD#0.3 to protect the last crux.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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3 stars (3 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11- (4 votes)

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Submitted by: caribe
Date: Nov 2nd, 2015

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Nov 2nd, 2015

Comments

1
caribe said on November 2nd, 2015
"We're jamming, to think that jamming was a thing of the past" "We're jamming and I hope the jam is going to last" [Bob Marley, Album: Exodus 1977, Island Records]
2
ray said on November 6th, 2015
Cool but several letter grades easier than any of the 5.10+ Beene cracks.
3
caribe said on November 12th, 2015
The 10a that made a clown out of my climbing partner ... on top rope ... repeatedly. After wiring the beta on TR he tried again and failed ..starts his next beta hunt hang dog session. Tries it from ground again and falls. He comes back 2 weeks later absolutely convinced of sending and fails again. More beta hunting - hang dogging. Sends next go and tries to claim 3 goes. It's like climbing with the village idiot.
4
caribe said on November 12th, 2015
If you're talking about Return of Geoff Beene 5.10d (Trad); I flashed it insight 3 years ago and downgraded it. If you are talking about The Beanling, 5.9 (trad), that was my proudest send ever one summer day.
5
kman154 said on November 12th, 2015
I deny very little, if any, about what Arthur Cammers has said. I still hold the opinion that as a clean route this will be a fabulous line, 4 stars maybe. I stand by my grade of 10d. This route was a wonderful find by Art and Scott Curren. The idiot has spoken, Kenneth Johns.
6
caribe said on November 12th, 2015
In your decision to get on this route, you should listen to the real climbers instead of caribe, the weak punk with an inferiority complex. :-/ If you climb 5.11 you'll surely float right through the crux.
7
Anonymous said on November 12th, 2015
Looks like you really don't have much experience with hard trad so how can you even begin to think you can rate it
8
Anonymous said on November 12th, 2015
If you scrub something this filthy you've earned the right to give it some ridiculously inflated grade
9
Anonymous said on November 12th, 2015
4 stars... lol
10
Anonymous said on November 12th, 2015
but then again I am too cowardly to reveal my identity anyway; what can I say, I have always been timid ... so I guess I'll let the straight shooters talk.
11
Patty McGee said on November 18th, 2015
just do the right thing and give it a 9+ ..
12
dustonian said on April 19th, 2016
A bolt at the bottom would be nice to protect that long move on choss to access the crack