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adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical

The Wasp

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

 Lost 'n Lichen It

20.
+0
0 votes

Calypso II 5.6 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori in 1977
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the right-facing dihedral directly across from the boulder mentioned in the description of The Wasp.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
dihedral (1) arete (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.11 stars (76 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.6 (59 votes)

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Submitted by: jtaclimber
Date: Aug 11th, 2019

Submitted by: jtaclimber
Date: Aug 11th, 2019

Submitted by: DrRockso
Date: May 27th, 2015

Submitted by: Lil Josh
Date: Apr 21st, 2014

Submitted by: Lil Josh
Date: Apr 21st, 2014

Submitted by: possum2082
Date: Apr 26th, 2009

Comments

11 comments {add your own comments}
1
Anonymous said on December 25th, 2002
This is a finger crack.
2
ace_trice said on November 12th, 2004
This is a hand crack.
3
Wes said on June 5th, 2005
Tricky gear at the bottom.
4
ReachHigh said on July 3rd, 2006
The cracks width changes from fingers to hands.
5
Huggybone said on November 19th, 2006
I don't like this route. Every time I climb it I think that I should have climbed something else.
6
Buzz said on April 5th, 2008
Dry after 4 inches of rain.
7
NateS GR said on October 16th, 2008
I thought the gear down low was pretty easy. This thing eats gear, especially stoppers and hexes. The climb is a great warm up.
8
Koebs said on March 31st, 2009
Never forget the time Johan ad I got up early to climb after a big party. Hung over beyond belief but determined to climb. I'm up 30 feet just kicking this routes butt and Johan yells up. Are you going to place any pro? At this point the route was almost over.
9
possum2082 said on April 26th, 2009
it's alright. finger then hands. some fun feet. good face features. watch for a loose small boulder near the top.
10
DrRockso said on May 27th, 2015
Great climb to do on all passive gear if you want practice placing nuts!
11
tunedvwgti said on May 25th, 2017
Really loved this on a rainy day! Bone dry.