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adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical

Lost 'n Lichen It

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Fortress Wall

 Where Lizards Dare

22.
+0
0 votes

Calypso III 5.2 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Bob Molzon, Dick Shori in 1977
Length: 60ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the wide dihedral to the left of the arete which Lost n Lichen It is located on. Bring large gear for the top.
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.29 stars (78 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.5 (99 votes)

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26 comments {add your own comments}
1
Eric said on February 6th, 2003
ain't no 5.2
2
strum said on May 6th, 2003
this thing is no 5.2
3
hopelesslycruel said on August 23rd, 2003
This is much more difficult than 5.2!
4
andy_lemon said on November 24th, 2003
Cool jams... direct start this thing under the small bulge off the ground for increased difficulty.
5
Anonymous said on December 2nd, 2004
deffinatly not a 5.2
6
kdelap said on January 5th, 2005
free solo on first attempt. probaly use a rope next time
7
diggum said on April 6th, 2005
5.2 my ASS. Didn't love it but may have been blinded by my panic.
8
powen01 said on May 4th, 2005
Yeah, my second trad lead... took a hang:( I enjoyed the jamming for sure though. 5.2? I might object to that grade... or just climb a lot more routes before I argue the grades:)
9
KD said on May 16th, 2005
this was the most terrifing thing in the universe! I'm never leadin trad again! help me!
10
knooper said on May 27th, 2005
5.2? Yeah. Sure. The only 5.2 on this route was the descent after you've topped it out. Maybe 5.4 with a 20 ft section of 5.7/5.8 slab thrown in! But still, my first trad lead! Do the direct start - its way cooler than the traverse!
11
kirker said on August 30th, 2005
I never thought I would be concerned with falling on a 5.2, but I had a really hard time finding a comfortable stance to place gear half way, and the peices I was able to place got in the way when climbing the crack. Would not recommend for someone uncomfortable with leading 5.5 or higher.
12
Papatrad said on April 12th, 2006
I was glad to see they fixed the grade in the new RRG guide book. This was my first trad lead and it blew my mind. I was very happy to send it....I had the shakes. I was pretty ticked when I learned it was only a 5.2 My expectations for my future in trad suddenly collapsed!
13
Josephine said on August 24th, 2007
what rating is this? it says 5.2 here but the consensus is it is NOT 5.2. i found it to be quite challenging. it was my 3rd trad lead so that may have a lot to do with it too.
14
512OW said on August 24th, 2007
Is there really any difference between 5.2 and 5.5? Not a noticeable one, far as I can tell...
15
Andrew said on August 25th, 2007
Hi, my name is Kris Hampton and I am so strong that I can't tell the difference between 5.5 and 5.2. Everyone should worship my increadible strength.
16
512OW said on August 25th, 2007
Sorry Andrew. I forgot about your sensitivity. Please forgive me. I know that going back to school has set you back to 5.7 for another 9 months. Its ok though, you'll break through into the 10's next year! You can do it big guy!
17
Buzz said on April 5th, 2008
I thought that this was a great route. It would help to have 2 or 3 #4 cams for the top, but other than that, great placement and holds all the way up. Fun knee jam near the bolts.
18
tunedvwgti said on April 19th, 2008
Hmmm... I thought this was a bit underated at 5.5 but maybe I am used to the "new" ratings. This was much easier for me to climb my second time up when I wasn't leading it, and I wanted to try it out top rope. Toproped, the route was a million times easier, but I still say it is harder than a 5.5 . One thing that made this climb slightly challenging for me was that the moves were new to me. I am not used to offwidth stuff so it made it interesting. I wish that the anchors were on the ledge, not below it! I want to check out the ledge!
19
45percent said on January 16th, 2009
Good first gear lead; protects well enough. I'm glad I bought a #4 C4.
20
cameier said on March 1st, 2009
Good first lead route.
21
Anonymous said on July 14th, 2009
Dragon's Tail at Practice Wall is a 5.3 and looks like stairs compared to this one. NOT A 5.2 And yes there is a difference between a 5.5 and a 5.2 Kris Hampton. Maybe he shouldn't be involved in rating these EASIER climbs?
22
Ascentionist said on July 16th, 2009
This was rated 5.2 in many old guidebooks. The consensus is that its more like 5.4, but it seems as if the historic rating has just stuck.
23
Josephine said on April 8th, 2012
I think Ray's just to busy to up the grade to 5.5 on this site. I checked all 3 versions of his guide and it's 5.5. It must have been Bronough's guide that had it at 5.2.
24
Wes said on October 8th, 2012
Classic 5.2 climb / first trad lead.
25
PatrickBecerra said on February 21st, 2016
This route goes on #1, #2, #3, #4 in that order, if you feel confident.
26
veela-valoom said on October 1st, 2018
Super fun climb! Well worth doing whether you're learning trad or looking for a pretty chill route. Four of us climbed it and we were all pleasantly surprised.