Short by a Foot

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

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1b.
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Starry Night 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dustin Stephens, Will Sweeney in 2016
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Crazy-steep line with permadraws just past the choss arch right of Dain Bramage. A mellow intro gains extrance to mega-pumpy jug reefing.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
dynamic (1) juggy (1) beautiful (1) shady (1) steep (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.1 stars (50 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (48 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jan 14th, 2019

Submitted by: Willy
Date: Apr 8th, 2016

Comments

1
shadow.ayala said on April 10th, 2016
I was going to bolt this years ago. Glad to see it get done. Can't wait to ride it.
2
dustonian said on April 10th, 2016
It was years ago when I started bolting it haha. Still a cool harder one to the right if anyone wants it... probably even share the anchor with this one
3
Willy said on April 11th, 2016
Has all the ingredients to be popular. Big moves, steep rock, permadraws, and a short hike to reach it. Surprisingly clean and solid as well for a new route.
4
DrRockso said on September 18th, 2016
Fun route, bring a brush to help clean the remaining sand off. Exercise caution going from 3 to 4 after the bat hang rest, falling wrong in this section can send you head first into the wall like my partner.
5
pumpout2004 said on October 10th, 2016
Super fun! Permas make this a real treat. Clean and generally choss free now.
6
slander said on October 17th, 2016
This will be five stars once it cleans up a bit more. Great movement. One of the steepest routes I've ever been on
7
lena_chita said on June 5th, 2017
Great for a hot-weather climbing day. Fully in the shade, and not a single "condition-dependent hold" on it.
8
Anonymous said on June 5th, 2017
a couple friends climbed this the other day and said bolts 3 and 4 were in bad shape. said that tightening them down probably wouldn't help. said something about a nut behind the hanger. i witnessed bolt 3 wobble with a flick of the rope. will report elsewhere, but figured i'd mention it here in case someone who knows what they're doing reads this.
9
Willy said on June 6th, 2017
A nut behind the hanger? Wtf. Bolts are pretty much new and stainless, Id bet money they just need tightening.
10
Anonymous said on June 6th, 2017
could totally be the case. i got sketched out and didn't go up it, haha. just thought it warranted comment. if i make it back out there w/ a wrench soon i'll take a look.
11
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2017
Probably a good idea to delay getting in this one unless you plan on being the one to inspect and maintain the bolts first.
12
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2017
Umm, that should be every climber on every route. (Inspect and maintain = try to tighten loose bolts you encounter.). This being a new SS route, almost guarantees it just needs a wrench on it. Ian
13
Cromper said on August 8th, 2017
Pretty amazing climb.
14
Anonymous said on October 29th, 2017
Great route, countless knee bars and better than I expected. 4stars, but did not feel any harder than air ride equipped. I think it's low 11 Joe Zatek
15
Anonymous said on October 30th, 2017
substantially harder than ARE but nice spray effort lol
16
J-Ru said on April 14th, 2018
Rock has flaked off behind the 5th bolt exposing the sleeve. There is about 1/2 inch of sleeve showing. The bolt is not loose. Reported on Bad Bolts.
17
climb2core said on April 15th, 2018
Did you try tightening?
18
J-Ru said on April 15th, 2018
The bolt was not loose. The rock behind the left side of the bolt flaked off. It may be okay, but there was enough rock missing to make me not want to fall on it.
19
DrRockso said on April 16th, 2018
Would be a good candidate for glue-in bolts if anyone has the time. FA ok'ed upgrading already.
20
MarshyMonsterD said on May 7th, 2018
Sorry just hopped on this site and could not find the report bad bolt option so had to leave this comment. As of April 29th, the 3rd bolt from the bottom has completely fallen out of its sleeve. A climber made it to the 4th bolt and fell there, then proceeded to finish the route. Upon decent, there was a bolt loosely hanging on the climbers rope. It now makes the 4th bolt, now 3rd, a decent ground fall if you blow the clip. I left the bolt hanging on the ledge below the climb.
21
Cromper said on May 7th, 2018
Route will be rebolted with glue ins in the next week or so.
22
Cromper said on May 8th, 2018
This route will be off limits most of the day Saturday May 12th for maintenance and bolt replacement.
23
Anonymous said on May 19th, 2018
So is this route good to go now? A friend and I were about to hop on and saw an 'x' next to the first perma draw. We weren't sure if that's from before re-bolting or if there's still a problem there.
24
Anonymous said on May 20th, 2018
It’s good to go. Use the glue ins.
25
Anonymous said on May 20th, 2018
Huge thanks for the hard work Cromper!!!
26
Anonymous said on May 20th, 2018
Thanks to Colin Howell for old bolt removal and patching as well! -Scott
27
inwardj said on September 6th, 2018
The cave/chimney adventure to the left of this climb is a fun little scramble.
28
Jacob said on August 26th, 2019
I think the difficulty is very dependent on if your leg will fit into a particular kneebar above the 4th(?) bolt. I got an awesome no hands rest by sticking my knee into a "hole" type of thing. That took all the pump away before powering up to the chains. Neither of my partners could make the rest work so they were on their arms the whole way after the lie down rest. Felt solid 12a to them, but 11c/d to me.
29
SteinBot said on September 18th, 2019
Disgustingly easy, felt more like a 10d. 1.5 stars
30
SteinBot said on September 19th, 2019
And this folks, is why you don’t leave your account logged in at work. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
31
AidClimber said on September 19th, 2019
Shut it gumball
32
SteinBot said on September 19th, 2019
You keep talkin and I'm gonna gum your balls
33
AidClimber said on September 20th, 2019
Gimme a bot job
34
SteinBot said on September 20th, 2019
Yes master. [ -c°▥°]-c (10000000000 00