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This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

Frontal Lobotomy

0 votes

Bottle Infrontome 5.10d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Alan Prechtel, Aaron Fraebel, Brian Bass in 2016
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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15ft left of Frontal Lobotomy. 40ft right of Starry Night. Yank jug to jug up a steep face, through a juggy roof then up a wide crack peppered with jugs.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
steep (1) juggy (1)
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Route Spray
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Quality Consensus

1.91 stars (11 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (11 votes)

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Submitted by: el toro
Date: Apr 27th, 2016


el toro said on April 27th, 2016
I did the FA before spending 4 hours cleaning the route. I didn't re-send it, but I think I got it clean enough. If not, I'm sure people won't be too shy to say so. Not on an internet forum! There is some rope drag at the roof, but I think the bolts are placed as well as they can be for this. I haven't tried longer slings under the roof to see if that helps.
Anonymous said on April 29th, 2016
looks like you bolted the start of the other cave route
el toro said on May 2nd, 2016
If you are talking about the potential route (or alt start) referenced in the Starry Night comments, I think that is 15-20 feet left of the line I just bolted. This is a completely independent line.
Jeff said on October 19th, 2016
2 stars as is IMO. Had the developer put permies on bolts 2-5 it might get traffic and clean up. As it stands without permies, you will have a horrendous time cleaning from top down due to rope drag. Fun climbing but needs some love.
monty4355 said on April 3rd, 2017
This thing will be real cool once it cleans up a bit. Real steep for the grade. Needs permadraws. Good luck cleaning.
DrRockso said on April 19th, 2017
This route suffers from bad rock quality, (not the kind that cleans up.) At a minimum this needs a cleaning draw, extremely dangerous as is. Clean on top rope or leave your first draw clipped in and retrieve with stick clip.
Patb said on June 6th, 2017
You should not climb on this route.
climb2core said on July 3rd, 2017
The route is good, but the last couple of bolts ruin the climbing and then creates heinous rope drag. Could add a couple of stars by lowering the anchors to the first bolt after the steep stuff. There was a leaver biner on the vert that we appropriated and placed in the steep to serve as a cleaning biner.