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Fugaku

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

Frontal Lobotomy


1bb.
+0
0 votes

Bottle Infrontome 5.10d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Alan Prechtel, Aaron Fraebel, Brian Bass in 2016
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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15ft left of Frontal Lobotomy. 40ft right of Starry Night. Yank jug to jug up a steep face, through a juggy roof then up a wide crack peppered with jugs.
Moves: unknown
Descent: unknown
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
steep (1) juggy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

1.91 stars (11 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (11 votes)

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Submitted by: el toro
Date: Apr 27th, 2016

Comments

1
el toro said on April 27th, 2016
I did the FA before spending 4 hours cleaning the route. I didn't re-send it, but I think I got it clean enough. If not, I'm sure people won't be too shy to say so. Not on an internet forum! There is some rope drag at the roof, but I think the bolts are placed as well as they can be for this. I haven't tried longer slings under the roof to see if that helps.
2
Anonymous said on April 29th, 2016
looks like you bolted the start of the other cave route
3
el toro said on May 2nd, 2016
If you are talking about the potential route (or alt start) referenced in the Starry Night comments, I think that is 15-20 feet left of the line I just bolted. This is a completely independent line.
4
Jeff said on October 19th, 2016
2 stars as is IMO. Had the developer put permies on bolts 2-5 it might get traffic and clean up. As it stands without permies, you will have a horrendous time cleaning from top down due to rope drag. Fun climbing but needs some love.
5
monty4355 said on April 3rd, 2017
This thing will be real cool once it cleans up a bit. Real steep for the grade. Needs permadraws. Good luck cleaning.
6
DrRockso said on April 19th, 2017
This route suffers from bad rock quality, (not the kind that cleans up.) At a minimum this needs a cleaning draw, extremely dangerous as is. Clean on top rope or leave your first draw clipped in and retrieve with stick clip.
7
Patb said on June 6th, 2017
You should not climb on this route.
8
climb2core said on July 3rd, 2017
The route is good, but the last couple of bolts ruin the climbing and then creates heinous rope drag. Could add a couple of stars by lowering the anchors to the first bolt after the steep stuff. There was a leaver biner on the vert that we appropriated and placed in the steep to serve as a cleaning biner.